Question about Cars & Trucks
I have purchased a used scorpio crde lx driven 95000kms and i am experiencing water in diesel filter light always on, engine light comes on almost at an average of 100 kms of driving. last trip was from goa to mahabaleshwar and back and i have experieced it after every 100kms , specially when negotiating curves ,overtaking and at high altitudes. kindly advise.1i am really dissapointed with the performance of crde engine being prior owner or scorpio dx turbo 2003 model which was a gem of an engine.
Have you tried changing your oil filter and all of your gaskets also you have sensors all over you engine you myt wanna try checking them out
Posted on Dec 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Is there a leak in one of the fuel lines? Check the length of the fuel lines from the pump (you may need an extendable mirror to see the top of gas tank) right up to the point where it enters the fuel rail on the engine. Take special note of the junctions and try to do it with the car running and at a slight idle so fuel is pumping. Check next for a smell of too much gasoline along the fuel rail as one of the injectors may be improperly seated and or broken and leaking. Has the service engine check engine light come on at all or come on and gone out. If your o2 sensor(s) go you use more fuel. If they go there should be a code stored in your PCM (computer). You can pull any codes out of that car by finding the connector and jumping it. Also if your air element(filter) or any pipes are clogged in that system up to the throttle body you will use much more fuel.
Let me know how these tests go
Posted on Jul 15, 2008
It took Mercon Dextron III.
Of course, MD IV, V or Mutli-Vehicle would be better (the new multi-vehicle formula is what is being widely recommended by all nowadays).
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Did it do this before you changed the filter ?
If no, suspect you have an air lock in the fuel injection system.
Simplest way for you to eliminate it, is to undo each of the 4 injector feed pipe nuts, half a turn, whilst the engine is running, at approx 1OOO RPM, the air will be forced out along with a squirt of diesel, and you should be back to normal.
Good Luck !
Let me know how you get on.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Hello John, this was very helpful and my car is not vibrating anymore. Ngiyabonga(Thank you) kakhulu (so much)!!!"That's Zulu"."
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I do not have expertise
specific to Mitsubishi passenger cars, but I can offer some generic automotive
At risk of oversimplifying, all that water is going somewhere and here are a few common culprits in increasing order of cost:
This is a sneaky problem but is cheap and easy to fix! The radiator cap serves to keep the coolant in the engine under pressure, and that pressure raises the boiling point. If the cap is slowly failing, the coolant can quietly boil away in much the same away as water left in a pot on a hot stove with little or no evidence, other than reports from the temperature gauge or light. You can take your radiator cap to a mechanic for pressure testing, but replacements are available at most parts stores for very little money. Note: you already know this, but NEVER OPEN A HOT RADIATOR OR RECOVERY TANK OR YOU WILL GET BURNED!
Troubleshooting requires getting under the car WHILE IT IS SHUT OFF AND PROPERLY SECURED and looking for obvious moisture. If you find a leak, it should be immediately obvious which component (e.g., tank, hose, etc.) needs repair or replacement. Tanks can be surprisingly expensive since manufacturers often mold them to fit each unique model of automobile. Note: plastic tanks often begin to crack where they connect to hoses or where exposed to greatest heat.
Since you are checking around the recovery tank anyway, carefully inspect all the engine hoses for damage, soft spots (healthy hoses should feel firm when squeezed, only a little softer than the inside of your forearm), or poor or leaking clamps. Hoses deteriorate most where they are hottest, where they make tight bends, and where they attach to other parts like the radiator or engine. Hoses are relatively inexpensive and are available at most parts stores.
Like caps, tanks, and hoses, radiators live a hard life of high pressure and heat, with the added bonus of being right out front where they can be hit by rocks, small animals, and other debris. If a radiator corrodes internally or has minor exterior damage it may begin to leak only when the engine is running and at normal operating temperature. With engine off and completely cool, open the radiator (if possible) or the recovery tank and inspect the coolant. If it shows evidence of foaming, rust-colored material, or sand-like grit, you probably have internal corrosion and need to replace at least your radiator and possibly the coolant hoses. If the coolant and inside of the radiator look clean, closely inspect the entire outside of the radiator for evidence of corrosion, usually appearing as greenish-, whitish-, or rusty-colored deposits, and most often found at hose fittings and joints where the radiator is braised together during assembly. You will also find deposits anywhere a pinhole leak exists. Again, if you find these symptoms, replace your radiator. Finally, run the engine up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and closely inspect the exterior of the radiator for steam or wet spots.
When a water pump begins to fail it often "weeps" or leaks small amounts from a small drain hole in the pump body. With the engine hot (i.e., after running to normal operating temperature) BUT NOT RUNNING carefully examine the water pump for obvious signs of seepage both at the gasket where it connects to the engine and behind the drive pulley. Replacement pumps are widely available but can be expensive and challenging to install if you are not mechanically inclined.
OK, now we are into the hard stuff. Every part of your engine mates to other parts with thin gaskets. Most of the gasket surface is internal and thus not visible to inspection on an assembled engine. Cooling system gasket failures sometimes manifest by leaking into the engine directly and are thus very hard to detect. So, how do we diagnose an internal leak? If the coolant is leaking in very small quantities into the exhaust or the combustion chamber, you can sometimes see or smell the burned result at the tailpipe. If you are using conventional coolant (e.g., antifreeze, glycol, or ethylene glycol), the tailpipe emissions will smell very sweet and maybe obviously moist or even steaming, sometimes with liquid water dripping from the tailpipe. NOTE: this should be obvious, but AUTOMOBILE EXHAUST GASSES ARE TOXIC AND CAN CAUSE ILLNESS OR DEATH. DO NOT SPEND A LOT OF TIME INHALING EXHAUST GASSES just take a few whiffs. Another way to check for internal cooling system failures is to inspect the coolant after running the engine briefly but before it all leaks out. If the coolant has a slick of oil (a rainbow or black-oil effect), you have breached cooling and oiling systems and are exchanging fluids. Also, examine the oil on the engine dipstick; if it has a thick gray- or white-colored greasy or foamy layer that may or may not smell sweet you have an internal leak. Finally, have the cooling system pressure tested by a trustworthy mechanic. When the cooling system is open to much higher combustion chamber pressures it over-pressurizes the cooling system and will be immediately obvious in a pressure test. If you find that any of these symptoms apply to your situation, you are looking at an imminent catastrophic failure and should get the car to a mechanic immediately. If you continue to operate a vehicle in this condition, you will destroy the engine, and possibly cause a crash.
I hope this lengthy troubleshooting guide helps you solve your problem.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Testimonial: "I thank you very much for this elaborated advice. I think i know now what to do: get a mechanic to verify the whole system, that will be the best."
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