Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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Front driveshaft... can I still drive an Explorer '98 with no front driveshaft (is a rear wheel drive) I know that this driveshaft is for the CV joints

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Yes you just won't have 4 wheel drive

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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The car goes back ans forth but not left and right. Front wheels turn left and right but do not spin


That sounds like one of the constant velocity joint on a driveshaft is broken, or the splined end(s) on the end of the driveshaft where it fits into the hub, have stripped.

The link below will show you generic photos of drivehafts/cv joints.
driveshaft cv joint Google Search

If the splined end of the drivehaft/hub strips, there's nothing to drive that road wheel. The driveshaft will just 'spin' but as it can't mesh with the splines in the hub - no forward motion.

Get somebody who knows what to look for to check both the driveshafts and identify which one is at fault.

May 20, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Is there a drive shaft


no, there is no "drive shaft" on a 94 oldsmobile. It is front wheel drive. you have a CV shaft from trans to left front wheel and a separate CV shaft from trans to right front wheel.

Jan 14, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Front diff.leaks not on cover on seal by the drive shaft


You need to replace the seal. If you are describing the driveshaft coming from the Transfer case, the part would be called a Pinion seal. You can price the repair by using this description and the Repair shop will know what you are talking about.

Sometimes people refer to the smaller shafts between the wheels and the front differential as driveshafts too. They are cv shafts or output shafts.

Sep 13, 2010 | 2006 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

How do you make 1992 legacy rear wheel drive


There is a fuse holder in the engine compartment. If you install a fuse in it it will make it front wheel drive but not rear wheel drive.

May 02, 2010 | 1992 Subaru Legacy

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.


it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

1 Answer

Driveshaft is making noises


i presume that is a front wheel drive vehicle. you likely have a cv joint that is failing (constant velocitiy joint is the full name). if you raise the vehicle and turn the tire back and forth you should be able to tell which one is failing. rear wheel drives would likely need a universal joint replaced. replace both at the same time tho.

Mar 24, 2009 | 1997 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

Front End Problems


first i would check the tires , are they cupped or chopped on the tread? run your hand over the tread and see if it feels rough and uneven. take the truck to a auto repair shop and have them jack both front and rear axles off the ground, put the truck in 2 wheel drive and run the speedometer to the speed you usually hear the roaring noise, if you don't hear the noise , put the truck in 4 wheel drive, turn off the traction assist if it has one and run it to the speed you would hear the noise. if you hear the roaring noise with tires off the ground, the problem is in the drivetrain, (engine, transmission, transfer case, u-joints, differentials or the front left or right cv halfshafts or u-joints). the older models (97 98) had the front two driveshafts from the differential turning all the time, they engaged in 4 wheel drive from the transfer case and a solenoid on the front differential. depending on the miles you have on this truck, the most likely areas i would look at would be the tires, u-joints/cv joints, and front and rear wheel bearings. thanks and good luck.

Oct 04, 2008 | 2004 Dodge Ram

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