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Fig. Exploded view of the water pump assembly mounting-4.3L engine
Clean the gasket mounting surfaces.
The water pumps on some of the engines covered may have
been installed using sealer only, no gasket, at the factory. If a gasket
is supplied with the replacement part, it should be used. Otherwise, a
in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealer should be used around the
sealing surface of the pump.
Apply sealant to the water pump retainer threads.
Install or connect the following:
Water pump using a new gasket. Tighten the water pump retainers to
89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for 4.2L engines, or to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm) for
4.3L engines. For 5.3L engines, tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15
Nm), then to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).Coolant hose(s)Water pump pulley. Tighten the pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25
Nm).Fan or fan and clutch assemblySerpentine drive belt (if equipped) by positioning the belt over
the pulleys and carefully allow the tensioner back into contact with the
belt.V-belts (if equipped) and adjust the tensionUpper fan shroudNegative battery cable
Refill the engine cooling system.
Run the engine and check for leaks.
Hope this help to solve it; rebember rated this post. Good luck.
Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
Disconnect the negative battery cable
Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor electrical connector.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for a more complete coolant drain.
Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
Break the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts loose using a 13mm box wrench.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
Remove the other bolt.
Remove the first bolt.
NOTE: DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4°or damage may occur.
Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
Remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.
Fig. 1: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.4L engine
Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slide the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts:19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Pump cover-to-pump assembly: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first: 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover: 125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan.
Install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
Install the lower heat shield.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
Install the upper heat shield.
Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine OFF.
Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level, then install the radiator cap.
Properly drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the pulley.
Remove the five water pump mounting bolts, then remove the water pump.
Fig. 2: View of the water pump mounting and bolt tightening specifications - 3.1L engine shown
Clean all the gasket surfaces completely.
Apply a thin bead of sealer around the outside edge of the water pump along the gasket sealing area, then install the gasket onto the water pump.
Position the water pump on the engine, then tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the water pump pulley and finger-tighten the pulley bolts.
Install the serpentine belt.
Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Let the engine run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and coolant level. Add coolant, if necessary, then turn the engine OFF.
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First you need to know the diameter of the bolts and the type of thread ie 3/8 N/C or 5/16 N/F then look at the type of bolt ie plain steel or high tensile SAE grade 3, 4, or 6, once you know this go to a general purpose bolt torque chart, and derive the torque spec info.
If the water pump is cast iron use the full torque specification.
If the water pump is alloy then reduce the torque spec 10%
Below is an example of a general purpose bolt / nut torque chart
That's a tough one Tom. I don't think that spec is in the standard shop manual. If the dealer won't tell you, you might check the size and grade # of the bolts and then check the generic torque vs size chart often found in the front of most shop manuals. Use sealant on threads. Sorry to not be more help.
There are many many causes for this, and troubleshooting depends on under what circumstances this occurs. However, one thought comes to mind - if the vehicle is acting as though the traction control is engaged, make sure to try turning it off.
special tools you need EN 48543 FAN CLUTCH HOLDING TOOL. J41240 FAN CLUTCH REMOVER AND INSTALLER. TORQUE FOR FAN CLUTCH NUT 41 LB FT. FOUR BOLTS TO FAN BLADE TORQUE 20 LB FT.WATER PUMP BOLTS TORQUE TO 11 LB FT. DONT NEED SPECIAL TOOLS REMOVE WATER PUMP.
YEP BAD FUEL PUMP WILL CAUSE STALLING AT LOW SPEED DRIVING ALSO OVER HEATING ENGINE,STUCK OPEN PCV OR EGR VALVE,FAULTY IDLE AIR SPEED CONTROL VALVE,FAULTY TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID.I WOULD HAVE CAR CODE SCAN FIRST BEFORE BUYING A $500.00 FUEL PUMP.