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Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem
How do you know it gets hot? Are you going by the temperature gauge on the dash? Or have you checked under the hood and found out the engine really is running hot? ...Reason I ask is, something just doesn't sound right in your description. After just 5 minutes from starting and driving away, the engine would not yet be at normal operating temperature. That would explain the heater not yet warm. But the temp. gauge says hot? If so, I would replace the temperature sending unit on the engine. the one for the dash gauge, and see if that was the problem-not reading the temp. accurately. Couple of other things: Are you sure you got all the air out of the coolant system? Start the car with the radiator cap off and let it run until the engine is warmed up fully, then shut it off and install the cap. Does your reservoir tank stay about half full where it should be, between the full-hot and full-cold marks? If your problem persists. I would have the coolant system pressure tested, and see if you could get a true temperature reading of the coolant when it seems to be running hot. Good luck.
Sounds like it's low on coolant. Check radiator. If low on coolant, heater may not get hot & temp gauge will read hot. The leak could possibly be a coolant leak..? Anti-freeze has a distinct odor when leaking from a hot engine. If that's the case, find the leak and have it repaired.
the thermostst is most likly stuck in the open position letting the coolant flow freely through the engine and keep recuirculating not giving it a chance to stay in the engine block to warm up. i would replace the thermostat
WELL IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE AIR POCKET VERY COMEN IF YOU DID THE WORK YOUR SELF SOME SHOP USE AIR LIFT TO GET AIR OUT OF SYSTEM BE FOR FILLING ANY WAY YOU MAY TRY THIS WHEN CAR COOL TAKE RAD CAP OFF START CAR LET GET WARM BE CARFULL NOT TO GET BERNT BUY COOLANT LET GET HOT NOT OVER HOT THEN TRUN CAR OFF LET COOL DOWEN THEN TOP OFF COOLANT TO SEE IF YOU GOT RID OF AIR POCKET YOU MAY NEED TO JACK THE FRONT END UP AS HI AS YOU CAN THIS HELPS TO WHEN YOU DO THIS HOPE THIS HELPS
you have air trapped in the cooling system. A good indication is that one or both of your heater hoses going into the heater core are cold when they should be hot.
Park facing uphill, raise front of vehicle so radiator cap is higher than top of engine. (You want bubble to get to radiator and out the cap.)
Leave cap on but loose, so bubble can purge.
Turn heater on.
Fill radiator and reservoir with 50/50 mix of antifreeze.
Start engine and run at about 1500 roms until the engine warms up and thermostat opens.
You will know themostat opens when top radiator hose is hot indicating coolant is flowing.
Shut off engine.
Fill radiator and reservoir. Install cap.
Check to make sure your thermostat works right by monitoring the warming up of your engine. With a completely cold engine, start and run the engine for a few minutes, then put your hand on the top radiator hose to monitor if and when it gets warm as the thermostat opens more and more and note the gauge reading( if it works) the top radiator hose should be unbearably hot within 5-8 minutes. If the therm. opens right it should close right aswell, staying open a little while eventhough the radiator may have cooled may be what you are experiencing causing the rapid cooling and is nothing to worry about. The Hose should not get warm very soon after starting the engine. Regarding you gauge, lets take one step at a time, verify proper op. or the therm.