Question about Cars & Trucks
Reverse and 1st gear are fine, it just won't shift into higher gears. The fluid looks a little dark so I thought I would change that, is there anything else I should do? A sensor? Thank you for any help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if the shifter is loose and sloppy feeling then the shift cable bracket has come loose under the dash at the steering wheel. remove the lower panel under the steering wheel so you can see under the dash then get flash light and look while jiggling the shifter. you should be able to see the cable and bracket. if the bracket is loose then tighten the bolts. note this bracket is at the steering colum.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
SOURCE: Hard Shift to 2nd Gear/next gear
Your going to have to get your car scaned for codes. Auto Zone can scan it for you for free and tell your what you'll need to fix it.
It sound's like your VSS Sensor (speed sensor) is not working and your ECM is not getting the signal from the transmission to know when to shift the gears.
Becareful not to burn out the transmission till you get it fixed. The sensor it self is not that expansive and to replace it is easy and takes about 30 min to do.
If you get a P0720 or a P0722 code, then it's your speed sensor. It's an esy fix and Auto Zone can give you instrction on how to change it.
Good luck, it takes about 30 min to change and hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
most likely the shift tube bushings are bad- you may have also lost a few screws in the shift tube or they could just be loose. you have to pull the steernig column down to inspect/repair it.
Posted on May 31, 2009
Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car
warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM
scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Also note that many problems that show up as transmission issues are actually PCM or electrical, and may be external to the transmission.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge ($55 shipped on Ebay, or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise.
1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accumulator housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.
1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
Here are the common things that may be happening to your transmission to what you have described. As for your transmission fluid being burn, that is a sign that your transmission is slipping. Your going to have to service the transmission again fluid and filter changed. Since your doing that you may want to replace the boost valve and shift servo. I did mine on my 4L60E and have over 365,000 miles so far, replacing the boost valve every 60,000 mile and it's only $45.00 and take less the 5 min to replace and the servo is around the same price. I did do the upgrade and have the corvette boost valve and servo in my transmission which helps a lot. The other thing to is B&M has a electronic shift controlled modulator you can install your self which would give you 3 settings and works great with the upgrades mentioned above.
Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted and try not to run the transmission too long with the burnt and dirty fluid. The dirt in the fluid will cause the electronic pressure control (EPC) valve to fail and will end up causing a $2,300.00 total transmission rebuilt over a simple $190.00 up grade and maintenance.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
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