I would not exactly disagree with the first two comments, but i would also check the torque converter bolts, or nuts to see if they were loose, (if its an automatic) which most probes with the v-6 came with an automatic... but its a real possibility of it being a rod knocking since it only knocks upon acceleration! good luck!
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try to use 93 octane gas. most likely water is in the gas that you are using and it can cause your car to knock, which is also known as bad gas. try getting your gas from a different source and use 93 octane gas.
Sounds like a defective knock sensor. These bring on multiple misfire codes with little change to performance. Check your oil level too, this can make knock detection codes come on unnecessarily.
Hope this helped...
First, I would like to mention that most knock sensor codes are not caused by the knock sensors, but a mechanical problem with the engine. The knock sensors cannot differentiate between noises caused by mechanical problems like a bad pulley bearing, bad motor mount, noisy alternator bearings, etc. and spark knock. knock sensor codes are set when the computer has retarded the timing as far as possible to compensate for ignition ping (Spark Knock) and the noise still exists.
With that said, here are the instructions.
Remove the Intake Chamber assembly. Disconnect Injector connectors. Disconnect the heater hose from the Intake Manifold. Remove the 9 bolts. 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and Intake Manifold assembly. Remove right hand engine mounting stay and water outlet.
Disconnect the following hoses and connectors: Radiator inlet hose. Engine coolant reservoir hose. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor connector. Engine Coolant Temperature Switch connector. Ground strap connector.
Remove the 3 bolts and right hand mounting stay. Remove the wire band. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the inlet housing. Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 2 plate washers and water outlet. Remove the 2 gaskets. Disconnect the Knock Sensor connectors. Remove the Knock Sensors.
try un-plugging the IAC motor,then start it,if it idles low and stays there then replace the IAC motor----if no change then you may have a knock in the engine and the knock sensor is telling the computer to change the timing to compensate for spark knock due to low grade fuel,so it advances the timing back and forth due to too high of rpm then too low and the computer doesnt know how to smoothen it out that fast,but eventually does.The check engine light would usually come on in this case
The idle issue is normal. The idle is controlled by the ECU. There are no adjustments for the idle. Regarding the knocking noise, that could be several things, and I am hesitant to comment without hearing it. Take it to a Toyota Dealer & have a tech listen to it. We are very good at identifying noises on the service drive.