Which is the power wire and ground? - Cars & Trucks

hi darlene.
this is all i could find.
Sounds like you might have an electrical issue. If all 4 wires on the relay had power, there is something wrong with the wiring. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. ... The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire.3 Feb 2016

Q: No power to fuel pump ' YourMechanic Answers

https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/no-power-to-fuel-pump_2
Isai RodriguezAutomotive Mechanic23 years of experienceTHANK ISAISounds like you might have an electrical issue. If all 4 wires on the relay had power, there is something wrong with the wiring. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump the computer actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. Electrical wiring issues can be a nightmare if you don't have the appropriate wiring diagrams to see which wires go to where. A mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, will have access to the proper schematics to help you
or go to this link and see if it helps you out some more.
No power to fuel pump Google Search

First check that you have power to the injectors with key in on. The injector fuse should be in the fuse/relay box under the hood. The red wire and the white wire are the power wires for each injector. The dark blue and dark green wires are the ground wires, respectively. The grounds both go into the ECM at the longer connector, where the computer grounds the wire internally to cause pulse.

If no power on either the red or white wire, check the fuse, and check it has power to it in run, or on. If both have power, you will probably need to trace the ground wires for a break. Or check continuity of the ground wires with an ohmmeter (a multi-meter), from injector connector to the pins at the ECM. If continuity is good, and no corrosion or problem with wire connectors, it could be a failed ECM.

What type of vehicle? Does the drivers window work?

You have a power wire shorted to ground
the capacitors are discharging
check for wires that are pinched to other wires or the chassis

A wiring problem or the driver's master switch, probably. Check for broken wires in the harness going into the driver's door opening. A dark green wire is the power wire to the switch (from a 30 amp circuit breaker in the relay block). and a black ground wire from the switch going back into the cabin.
Pull the master switch out and check for power on the dark green wire at the connector, with key on. If no power, wire may be broke from the circuit breaker to the switch, probably in the door opening. If power is good, check the ground circuit from the switch connector to ground. Like this: voltmeter positive lead on the green wire terminal with key on, voltmeter negative lead on the black wire terminal. If voltmeter registers battery voltage, power and ground is good. If no voltage shows on voltmeter, power or ground is bad. Move voltmeter negative lead to a good ground on frame or body. If voltage shows, power is good and ground is lost-look for broken black wire in door opening. Check for the black ground just inside the cabin from door-maybe under the driver's kick panel.
If both power and ground is good to the master switch, try a new or used master switch.

Dealers-hmmph.
You may have to keep looking for another broken wire. To the driver's master switch, a tan wire looks like the hot wire (feed) for the switch. And a black wire is ground, originating at the master switch and going back into the cabin with the wire harness, and then to a nearby ground source, probably behind the left kick panel. If you pull the master switch off, key on,, check for power on the tan wire terminal of the switch connector. Use a test light or a voltmeter. Now if you have a hot wire on the connector, put one volt meter lead on the hot wire terminal and the negative lead onto the black wire terminal. If ground is good, voltmeter will read battery voltage. If ground is lost, voltmeter will show nothing. Same with test light-check for a hot wire with key on. If yes, put test light lead on hot wire and use probe to touch ground-if ground is good, tester will light up. Alternatively, you could remove the left kick panel and check the security of the ground to frame there.
The only place I know for a wiring diagram would be a repair manual. Haynes manuals are about the best (about $25 at parts stores), short of a factory service manual for big bucks.
If still no luck with windows, and no hot wire with key on, pull the circuit breaker for the windows on the fuse panel under dash. With key on,. one of those terminals for the circuit breaker should show power. Ground a test light and probe both terminals to check for power. If no power there, check under hood fuses or fuse links that feed the fuse box. If CB has power available, well, that's the feed for the tan wire-sounds like either the tan wire or the black ground wire may have a break. If power to switch, check ground wire.
As a last resort, try a new circuit breaker if powered at CB terminal but nothing at driver's switch. If power is to switch on tan wire, and ground is working, consider that you may have gotten a defective master switch-not likely, but known to happen.

Anything can go bad, but to my knowledge circuit breakers seldom do. If you have a test light, pull the circuit breaker and probe both terminals for a power signal, with the key on. One terminal should show voltage with key on. If not, check the power distribution box for a blown maxi-fuse, or the wiring from that box to your fuse panel.
BTW, no, no relays are in the window circuit. So if the circuit breaker has power to it, put it back in and check for power on the driver's door master switch-one wire on the master should have voltage with key on. If no hot wire to the master switch, check inside the door openings for a broken wire. If you do have one hot wire there. check the power windows ground-the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. Put one lead of the test light on the hot wire (key on), and probe the ground terminal at the master switch-if your ground is good, the test light will light up. If the ground is lost, no light. Check for a broken ground wire in the door opening, and/or find the ground and see if it is bad. If the master switch has a hot wire and a good ground wire, replace the master switch.

pull out socket and check for power and ground wire that goes to center should be the power wire and wire that goes to out side should be ground
if u have power and ground then replace socket
if u dont have power check fuses again look for broken wire
if u dont have ground look for bad wire

an alternator has a power out wire a smaller power in wire to excite the field, a ground wire for the field and a large ground wire. Most ground wires are brown. And most power wires are red. You check check the wire for ground and power with and ohm/volt meter. Put the voltmeter on volts and connect the black wire from the meter to ground and the red to the wire, turn on the key and if you have volts it is a power wire. If no volts the turn the key off, select ohms and attach the black meter wire to ground (such as the frame or any metal) then attach the red wire to your blue/white wire if you show 0 ohms or low ohms then it is a ground.

have you replaced the blower motor resistor yet,it is a printed circuit that has a floating ground.it is where the blower motor wires plug in to.if you unhook the motor wires and use your ground and hot wire on the motor it should test normal,