Question about 2001 Mercury Mountaineer
This only happens after you have driven for a little bit. It sounds like metal on metal when you "verily" apply brakes while backing up and turning hard out of a parking spot. sometimes I can hear it lightly when turning in, also. My son thought it was from emergency brakes and rotors. It is an AWD. He changed both sides on rear.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The clutch in the transfer case is burnt up and fused together therefor binding the powertrain. If you continue to operate it like this it will destroy the front differential and possibly the rear differential. It was most likely cause by the tires not having equal circumference either due to a mismatch of tires (different brands although the same size is indicated on the side wall will have different measurements,I have seen BF Goodrich tires have a different size because speed rating was different although the model was the same) or lack of tire rotation during the life of the tires.. If the measurements are not with in 1/4 inch around the center of the tread this will cause your concern. Tires should always be replaced at all 4 corners on all wheel drive vehicles.
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
I had the same problem with my 2002 Mountaineer at about forty thousand miles. Murcury replaced the steering column free under warranty. I now have ninty two thousand miles and it's back. The rear end is making a whining noise, the tranny is starting to slip, and the rear window regulator went out. Why did we buy a Mercury?????? Disgusted Dave!!!
Posted on May 10, 2009
Check the condition of the wheel bearings, front and back side if the brake rotor, and the back side of the rim. Everything should be clean, rust build-up can throw everything out of true. The hub or wheel-bearing should be tight and smooth when spun.
Posted on May 12, 2009
sounds that something is wrong with your left axle. maybe they forgot lubrification when installing. see a mechanic before this axle gets damaged if it has not allready happend
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
Well, you will have to wiggle and pry the rotor until it comes off. I just did this on a 2003 mountaineer and it was a bear. At least one side was very hard. It turned out the rotor inside was so bad that the shoes could not get past a lip on the outer edge of the parking brake effective surface. I had to pry and hit until it came off. Once removed I noticed that the shoes were shot, I mean, the braking material was completely gone. This is where the fun began. Removed the springs and removed the hold down clips. The hold down clips were stretched and were not effective by the way. Removing the shoes was not too bad. Installing the new ones is difficult as the wheel hub is in the way. Carefully install the springs and adjuster. Once you get past that then you have to deal with the hold down clips. It happens that the top pin where the clips attaches to is fairly accessible from behind so you can support it while you install the hold down clip. Again, it is doable but very difficult as the hub is in the way and the room is barely enough. Once you do the upper, the bottom one is the bear, the hole to access the pin from behind happens to be underneath the CV joint and it is not easily visible. I had the worst time installing this clip. If you do not then the shoes will rub against the rotor. Not good. Anyways, it is not easy, I do not know what they were thinking with this system. Removing the nut in the center will only allow you to remove the cv joint, you will have to deal with the wheel bearing if you want to remove the hub. Good luck, and I hope this helped.
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
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