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1996 Skandic 500 cc W/T electric start - voltage regulator burnt up when new battery installed - what sould i do

Voltage regulator burnt up when new battery installed - what should i do

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1970 VW Beetle voltage regulator

loud your battery again and see if ti keep running it down--if yes check the battery loading size it suppose to be around 12-13.
less then 9-10 in most cases it's the alternator cause another thing is your battery could be out of work

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: Will not start even with new starter and battery and new fuses and clutch switch.

Check the voltage on the big line of the battery terminal cable running to the starter it should be 12 volts with car off. This line is attached to the big nut on the starter, and also check to be sure the small black cable is connected to the bolt that holds the starter, the long thin bolt going to the starter towards the transmission bell housing. On some models of the cavalier there is a module mounted on the front of the car to fix a defect. If you face the front of the car this module is near the battery on the right and has one small bolt, it is extremly small, which is in the middle. Unplug this module and check it with a multimeter, I think pins pin 34, and 35. The module has a diagram pointing to the connection point for checking it.I would not change your alternator when you have lights and everything else but the starter is working.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: electrical

If you have a volt meter check to see if there is a drain on the battery when the car is off, you can then pull each fuse to see which circuit is causing the draining. Sounds easy, but I have also seen cases where somone left change (a penny) in the cigarette lighter causing a short cirucit.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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SOURCE: i am trying to locate the alternator and voltage


Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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SOURCE: Electrical system died. Had it

Voltage regulator is part of the alternator (internal). Very unlikely its the computer.

Posted on May 03, 2011

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12 volt system, hard starting, was told probably an amperage issue. How do I test it and how many amps should I be getting

there is no amperage reading as it is a variable depending on the current being used bu the systems
however voltage on the other hand is adjustable and readable
for a fully charged battery the reading should be 12 volts ( actually 13.2 v) and with the engine running at 2.000rpms the voltage should be 14.5 -14.8 volts
hard starting ( slow cranking speed) can be from a bad battery ( have a load test done at a battery shop) as it will read 12 volts but that drops to below 9 volts when a load is applied such as a starter motor operation
as a result the amps available will also drop and the starter has difficulty turning the engine
dirty battery posts and terminals (should be shiny clean ) or loose terminals will also create too high a resistance for the starter to work
you should take the vehicle to an accredited auto electrical shop where they can:- load test the battery, charge voltage and regulator operation
they can also attach an amp meter clamp around the positive cable to the battery to read the current draw when cranking the engine to use as an indication of possible starter faults
that reading for the starter operation can be as high as 450 amps for a few seconds but if it goes over 500 amps ,then that may indicate a problem starter especially if the battery has a low cc reading
( battery capacity is read as cc amp hour and for a small car would be 250-350 cc ah and for a larger vehicle can be 400-650 cc ah)

Sep 12, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1996 Chevy Beretta won't charge battery

Let the car run for a little while. The battery will read lower after starting because it just pulled power out to start the car. If battery light comes on or the voltage keeps dropping trace all wires and make sure connections are tight. I would think that a 95 model car would have an internal voltage regulator but if not find it and replace it. But be sure to unhook the battery first or you will short the new regulator out too.

Jun 11, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet Beretta

1 Answer

New alternator new battery installed still wont charge the battery and radio and power anttena dont work

If you have a voltage meter, you should check if your voltage regulator is working correctly. The voltage regulator should keep the voltage to the battery something under 15 volts when the motor is running (more than 13.5 volts with all electrical turned off).

If more than 14.5 volts, you may be damaging your new battery and regulator is not working properly. Also, radio may not come on because a voltage sensor is protecting it from the high voltage. Antenna is controlled by radio so that should not be working either.

Good luck.

May 05, 2011 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a 1996 Pontiac Grand Am with new alternator and battery. Alternator won't charge battery. What is the problem?

u need to check ur fuses for possible burnt charge fuse, next make sure the thick wire on the back of alternator has battery voltage and is tight. next make sure ur alt belt has enogh tension an is tight,could b loose an slipping. might need to have ur engine computer scanned for electrical system faults,computer may not b turning on voltage regulator etc.... cant think of anythging else chek these items.... good luck

May 01, 2011 | Pontiac Grand Am Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I seem to have a charging of the battery problem. I would get 14 volts to my battery from my alternator and then 6 volts, i changed m alternator and things were going great, no problems. Now it is acting...

If you were originally having a wild fluctuation in measurement at the battery the voltage regulator would have been shot. I'm not sure of what the condition was of the original alternator. But I would definitely have changed the voltage regulator. A bad regulator can ruin a battery and all sorts of other things. If you are now getting wild variations in voltage
1st Purchase and install a new voltage regulator. (probably about $20.00 these days.
Then check your new battery by doing the following:
1 Disconnect it from the truck's electrical system.
2 Charge it up using another vehicle and jumpers.
3 After disconnecting the battery from the jumpers, let it sit for a few minutes.
4 Check the voltage. If it is below 12 volts, the battery is shot. Replace it under warranty.
5 When you get the new battery, Install it in the truck and start it up. Then measure the voltages coming into the battery from the alternator and the new voltage regulator.
If all is well, your done.
If not. Pull the alternator and replace that.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck,

Jan 05, 2011 | 1988 Dodge Ram 50

1 Answer

Loss of battery charge, with new battery. Amp meter reading charging when motor is running.

Hi, There is a slim possibility that the new (or rebuilt) battery is defective.
Here are the things that cause it. And the things that don't.

The voltage regulator controls how much electricity is used to charge the battery and how much is going into the electrical system of the car. The electrical system may has been designed to integrate the voltage regulator into the case of the alternator. If that is the issue, the alternator can be replaced, or if there is a skilled person that does rebuilds in your area, he will know how to change the diodes in the voltage regulating section of the alternator. You can save money this way. If you have a volt meter or a multimeter, (commonly around $25.00 these days and between $4 and $7 at Harbor Freight), you should get a reading of around 12 volts from the battery when it is charged and the engine is off. If the battery is down, the voltage should still be in that area, but not enough of a kick behind it to do anything but light a small bulb. When the car is started and the voltage regulator is doing it's job you should get at least 13.5 volts DC at the battery terminals.

Many of the symptoms that occur also happen because of poor electrical contact at the battery.
Use Baking soda and water to clean the terminals of the battery of corrosion. And then use a battery cleaning tool for the battery posts and the battery wire clamps that go around the post. Make sure all of the connectors and wiring is sound.

I would then test all of this doing the following steps..

Charge up the battery.

Then connect the system and do the voltage checks. If the Battery is charging properly, the regulator will gradually reduce the charging voltage it is using to charge.

After 15 minutes, shut the engine down and check the battery voltage. and turn on the headlights to see if they are still bright.

If the voltage is at 12 volts DC the battery is OK.

One very simple test of a charging system is to charge the battery, start the engine, then pull the positive terminal off of the battery. If the engine dies, then the voltage being generated from the alternator is too weak.

If your battery is bad it will show low voltage. If one of the plates in it is shorted out. The voltage will be 10 Volts.

Hope all of this helps,
Happy New Year,

Jan 04, 2011 | 1996 GMC Yukon

2 Answers

I just recently replaced my altinator and battery and everytime i try to start it its dead what are some possible problems?

possible problems are endless, could be the voltage regulator, could just be some sort of drain in the electrical system ie a dome light that is burnt out but maybe the switch is in the on position. when you jump it it starts up? Does it click when you try and start it? It could be the starter or starter solenoid and not a power issue. hope this helps

Oct 27, 2009 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

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