Question about 2002 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

2000 Kia Sportage will roll over, but not start and run.

I have a 2000 Kia Sportage with the 2.0 Dohc engine. I will roll over fine, but will not start and run. If I spray starting fluid in the plenum it will run for as long as I keep the fluid spraying. I disconnected the fuel line fron the injector rail, and fuel seems to be flowing fine, with good pressure. I changed the fuel filter with a new one. I checked the ohms on the fuel injectors, and they are all at 15.9 ohms. I believe this to be in the "good" range. I changed the fuel pump relay, and the main relay. I have 3 used crank position sensors, and 4 used cam position sensors that have all been rotated in and out in different sequences. I would not imagine, even though used, that this many units would all be bad. I have spark. I tested it with a spark tester. I have taken all wire connections behind the engine apart, checked for damage, found none, and reconnected. The coils have two wires connected to each. One has voltage with key switch on, the other doesn't. The same is true for the injectors. I have not checked the timing, which I do not think is an issue since it seems to run well on the starting fluid. I will check compression readings tomorrow, but again, it seemed to run to well on starting fluid to have low compression. The only code it is giving is a P1115. I obtained the vehicle not running, so I have no prior knowledge of runability. I am now lost on what could possibly be causing this problem???

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  • Anonymous Dec 04, 2012

    No idea why you did anything other than working the P111 5 code first P1115 -Coolant Temp Signal ECM toTCM I got you that far you can google the fix

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 04, 2012

    I have googled it for 2 days. Plenty of problems, but no solutions. I did not think the coolant temp signal would prevent the motor from running.

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 04, 2012

    if you spray starter fluid and it starts , the fuel pump is good . YOU NEED A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR IT IS ON THE FUEL RAIL

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 04, 2012

    the coolant temp sensor can cause a motor not to run . if it is bad it will tell the computer that the motor is too hot to start ever if you just started the car

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 04, 2012

    Is it at the forward end of the rail... it has a vaccum line on it?

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 04, 2012

    I will get one tomorrow and try it.

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 04, 2012

    his is my link to my garage I am on facebook https://www.facebook.com/TedsRepairs

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 04, 2012

    Ok. Thanks!

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 05, 2012

    I still have not had time to change the coolant tempature sensor or the fuel regulator. My friend however is checking the timing marks to make sure of proper alignment. Spark plugs look good, but replaced anyway. Compression was all wacked out, but could be due to timing being off, or oil leaking into cylinder when plug is removed, causing increased compression (hydrolic effect). Valve cover is leaking into spark plug ports. I will try to get the sensors replaced. and everything back together tomorrow.

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 05, 2012

    I have now changed the fuel pressure regulator, and the coolant tempature sensor. The car will not run on it's own. Does not even try to start. It will only run as long as starting fluid is sprayed in the plenum. I'm thinking that the injectors are not spraying fluid (pulsing), but do not know how to check this. This trial and error is getting expensive. I see this same problem all over the internet, but all the solutions are different. Any ideas?

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 05, 2012

    I would like to add that the car seems to run good on the starting fluid. It will idle, and take throttle as given. I took the timing cover off also, and verified that the motor is in time. The "I" on the intake side is lined up with the arrow on the backing plate while the "E" on the exhaust side is also lined up with the arrow on the backing plate (both at the top on seperate arrows above them), and the crank gear is at the top lined up with it's mark on the engine. If this is the correct positioning, it's in time. Thanks!

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 05, 2012

    need to go to the begining please . how do this problem start

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 06, 2012

    I bought it not running. The guy I bought it from said that one morning it just would not start. He said that he thought that it had jumped time, and he put a new timing belt on it. I don't know why he thought that it jumped time.

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 06, 2012

    He also tried changing the ECU out with a used one. I have changed it out with 2 additional used ones. I have 4 total. I wouldn't think them all to be bad.

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 06, 2012

    you brought some one head ache sorry. I am going to good over everything as it is in my shop and see what i come up with. do you have first ecu the one before he change it

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 06, 2012

    i need to know if it was built before 5/12/99 or after 5 /13/99 ty

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 06, 2012

    It appears that I bought a very big headache! I do have the original ECU that was in the car when I bought it. I'm not sure of the build date. I will have to look tomorrow, as the car is at a friend's house. It is very baffling. I have seen everything from tapping on the ECU and wiggling wires, to installing new crank position sensors and timing belts. Everybody's fix is different! I have never encountered that before. Thanks for your help! I see not many people wanted to tackle this one.

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 06, 2012

    It was built 12/03/1999.

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 06, 2012

    first there is very few real mechanics here . I get cars like this but worse in my garage every. I had a 1995 chysler lebaron in my that is worst.as in the ECU. you need to make sure theECU matches the emission on the label under the hood. ECUs go by fed or cal emissions. and the ECU has to have build day 5/13/99 and up. your is a 12/3 99 means 2000 only

  • James L. Scranton Sr. Dec 06, 2012

    Are you saying the ECU should be manufactured in 2000, or is there a number under the hood that should match a number on the ECU. All the ones I have came out of 2000 year model vehicles. On a new note, we now know for certain that we do not have injector pulse. To test further, I need to know how many, and what color wires are on the C123 connector. Can you answer this, as I cannot find it anywhere? Thanks!

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  • Master
  • 2,101 Answers

You missed the fuel pressure regulator. ti keeps the fuel running in the fuel rail

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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SOURCE: 1997 Kia Sportage wont start

check to see if timing belt has jumped

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2000 kia sportage trouble code po171 once in

I have 2005 Kia Sportage with a check engine light. No other symptoms. I was told by Kia and Local mechanic that it is the fuel injectors. Error Code states that Fuel injectors are running lean. Put Master airflow- no change. Ran engine test with propane to run rich and trim never changed from 15. Car runs great. Kia dealer said that this is because we use Ethel in gas that it effects the alumium fuel rail delivery to the injectors and that it is necessary to change all of them .Kia Dealer wants $1,000.00 deposit to place order 6 fuel injectors from Kia. (Has anyone heard of that?)Also put fuel injector cleaner in tank.Does anyone have any suggestions before I spend over $1,000.00 to replace all 6 injectors or possible idea of what could be wrong?

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

carsandcomps
  • 722 Answers

SOURCE: Can not start 2000 Kia Sportage with 161 K Miles.

It sounds like the timing is not set correctly. When you installed the timing belt, there are two dots on the crank shaft and cam shaft sprockets - these two dots need to line up as close to eachother as possible. This is done by putting the belt on the two sprockets while both dots face eachother - lay them down on a table or flat (clean) surface with both dots facing eachother (crank shaft sprocket dot should be facing up, and cam shaft sprocket dot should be facing down) - carefully insert the sprockets onto the cam shaft and crankshaft simultaneously - this usually takes some finess and patients - once they are in place and you are confident they are lined up, you can put the coverback on. Also, make sure (first) that the number one cylinder is at TDC (top dead center, or in the "up" position. Pull the #1 plug out, manually crank the engine over or "kick" the engine over with the ignition (have someone do it for you). You can use a small screwdriver,inserting into the plug hole (not all the way) and when you see it pop up, poke it in again to feel the piston is at it's maximum height (if you hold the screwdriver on the cylinder and feel the screwdriver / piston go down, bring it back up again.
With it at top dead center, and the two dots facing eachother, put everything back together. Make sure all gaskets are not "bulging" out of the cover. (if applicable) .
If this is all done correctly, the car should start with no problem.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
carsandcomps,
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

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11eb5c9.jpg

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Okay.

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