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No spark replaced cdi pulse generator not getting spark from green yellow wire to coil

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  • 104 Answers

What kind of car

Posted on Dec 04, 2012


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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

justuscc
  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: No Start, No Spark, for Grand Caravan 3.8L

we get remans bad out of the box......... good luck

Posted on Sep 26, 2008

  • 1201 Answers

SOURCE: car has no spark or injector pulse(new ecm,crank sensor)

Check the fuse for the injectors, some vehicles have the injectors and coil running on the same circut, at the same time check the fuse for the ignition.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Car just stopped running. Lost power suddenly.

Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 gmc 6500 topkick with no spark or injector pulse

You are jumping to conclusions. Slow down.
No spark AND no injector pulse indicates none of the desired outputs were triggered. The ignition module makes spark when it receives a crankshaft position sensor signal, and then transfers control of that spark to the computer after it starts. The module takes its crank sensor signal and generates an RPM count that it forwards to the PCM(main computer) which is used for triggering the injectors and controlling timing. SO, if you had a bad crank sensor OR a bad ignition module, you could lose both spark AND fuel. a coil would not disable injector pulse. modules RARELY fail in a manner that disables RPM reference to the computer causing it to not fire the injectors...At this point, I would TEST the crank sensor as the next step. If its easier, 1 of the wires on the module goes directly there so you can test the crank sensor at the module.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

Testimonial: "great info, thanks!"

SOURCE: 1993 5.2 litre dodge dakota with no spark.

didyou check the cranck sensor? or the distibutor pick up coil, those sensors pick the ignition signal for the computer and send the spark of the coil if any of those sensors are broken dont work the engine and plus check the injection pulses of the fuel injectors too . i hope be help for you fellow

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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1 Answer

Why my 94 Astro van will not fire


this generation of gm vehicles is easy to troubleshoot. the engine needs 3 things to run: compression, fuel, and spark. since you mention fire, i assume you have no spark.

disconnect any random spark plug wire and connect the end to a hei spark tester. crank engine and observe for spark. if you have no spark, disconnect the center terminal of the distributor cap and use the hei tester in the same manner. spark means cap and rotor bad or bad plug wireset. no spark means make more checks.

check for battery voltage and good ground on distributor. check for open or shorted ignition module or ignition coil windings. if power and ground is present and ignition coil tests ok, check for ignition pulses at coil primary. if you have no ignition pulses feeding the coil, change the distributor.

with that generation of vehicle, the ignition system will operate without help from the computer. don't even troubleshoot the guts of the distributor, if you change the cap, rotor, and anything else, it will be the same price as a remanufactured distributor, and might not fix the problem. if you troubleshoot a low volrage related issue (no pulses, shorted or open circuit, unstable timing, etc), change the whole thing.

Jul 29, 2016 | 1994 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

I have replaced the coil pack on my 2002 ford taurus with the 3.0 24 valve engine. I have no spark to cyliders 3 and 4. I have also replaced the electical connector to the coil pack as well. All 4 wires...


All 4 wires have power and the yellow and white and the yellow and black pulse with the test light, the yellow and red and the solid red wire have a steady light with no pulse. The PCM - engine computer is no good , driver (transistor's) in side turn the coil on an off . Burnt transistors .

Mar 30, 2017 | 2002 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

2004 Tiburon...drove earlier today then parked. Tried to start it again but it would not start. I checked all of the fuses related to the ignition system and checked for spark on each of the coils.None of...


If there is none of spark at each spark plug when you crank the engine. Assuming that you checked the spark like that, unless you have other way in doing this, then the problem is the ignition module.
The spark at the secondary coil is only generates a spark at a spark plug if there is a pulse voltage at a primary coil. The pulse voltage is not there then there is no spark. The one generates the pulse voltage is the ignition module when the starting is in action. Hop this can help.

Sep 13, 2010 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

2 Answers

I have no spark.. have replaced crank sensor, computer, coil pack.... cranks over fine just no fire.... also injectors are pulsing with key in on posistion


The coil is good after you check resistance from primary and secondary terminals, but it won't generate spark if there is not pulsing at the primary terminals. You can generate sparks by connecting at the primary coil to 12 volts from the battery. Connect the secondary terminal to a spark plug. Now the primary connection has to make pulses on off continuously (either positive or negative ) to generate the spark from the secondary terminal (now is at the spark plug). If you have spark here then the problem is the ignition module. It is a electronic device to perform the function as you just did to generate the spark. Good luck.

Nov 10, 2009 | 1992 Oldsmobile Silhouette

2 Answers

I have no spark i replaced the spark plugs spark wires and the coil pack and still nothing my power distribution box is fine any ideas


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Hi, 94 seville, no spark, how do I check crank and cam sensors? coil pack? ignition control module? I am trying to determine why no spark. Any help in explaining how to check these items would be great....


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 27, 2009 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

No spark in my 1999 silverado 4x4 4.8 engine


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 01, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

97 saturn sl1 drove in fine, won't start just crank. no spark


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jan 12, 2009 | 1997 Saturn SL

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