Question about 2006 Mercedes-Benz E-Class

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I got a oil leak form the top of the left rear side of the engine looks like a plastic plugwith a rubber seal up against the engine block.

I wondering does this plug pop in or screw in

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  • 18 Answers

Sounds like a core plug...any mechanic sort this prob....

Posted on Feb 08, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Leaking rubber seals

Ryan,

I had the same problem on my wife's 2000SLK, took it to the dealer, they did a water pressure test in this area, charging me $80.00 and came up with nothing. Upon my further investigation, I discovered that there is a drain built into the rubber seal at the top of the windshield, in the corner where the top of the door glass meets that rubber seal on the driver's side. look carefully and you will see three small holes in the rubber seal at the top of the windshield and a larger triangular shaped depression in the corner, this is a "catch-basin" drain that runs all the way down the side of the rubber gasket along the end of the "A" pillar emptying in the space in front of the door, then onto the ground. First I cleaned out the triangular catch basin carefully with a small flat bladed screw driver, then used compressed air to blow out the drain. Blow out the three small holes also. This procedure worked for me. Do the same on the passenger side. Good Luck!

Bernie

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

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SOURCE: i recently purchased a 1996 mercedes c180

Head gasket not torqued down properly or the cam brake assembly above that area is leaking.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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2 Answers

2003 dodge Intrepid 2.7l oil leak above rear main seal after running 20 minutes


rear main seal usually only leaks when the car is running. though oil will slowy drip off afterwards. now the best way to tell is to remove the heat sheild that covers the flywheel and look at it and at the flywheel . is the oil only on the engine side of the cover or is it inside the cover and on the fly wheel. the rear main seal will leak into the bellhousing and on the fly wheel the oil pan gasket will leak on the front of the heat sheild.

Source:

former chrysler mechanic

May 24, 2014 | 2003 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Mazda Bt50 cab leaks on drivers side


I recently purchased a 2008 BT50 dual cab then 2 days later we had 500mm of rain and of course it leaked :( I had about 80mm of water on the drivers side floor and 30mm on the passenger side floor. I stripped the interior out of the car and started hosing the outside and watching where it was coming in. I took all the windscreen surrounds off and the cowl panel off below the screen there was no water coming in from that area. I had taken the gutter seals off but left the door seals on so the water was running down around the outside of the seals (with the door shut) and out at the bottom. From inside near the drivers side kick panel I could see water coming through seams in the metal work and when I took the door seal rubber off the body on the car I could see water was getting in at the top of the door seal rubber going down the front inside edge of the rubber and getting in through the seam where the rubber push's onto the body of the car (first problem). I took all the door seal rubbers off and run a bead of non corrosive silicon inside the cavity and pushed them back on. It seemed to have fixed the problem I dried the carpet and put it back together..Two weeks later we got another 325mm of rain and it leaked again :( not near as bad this time. Looking at the bottom of the door where the door trim meets the door I could see water coming from behind the trim and then into the car. I took the door trims off and could see water gets in when the window is up (all cars do) and is supposed to run out the drain holes in the bottom of the door but the water was dripping and splashing up to the back side of the door trim against the sheet of plastic that is supposed to seal against the door with the black mastic (it doesn't) and running straight into the car. I cut some plastic and siliconed them onto each opening on the inside of the door frame and then put the factory piece of plastic on as well (properley this time) as a backup.
So far so good.

May 26, 2012 | Mazda BT50 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Leaking oil on right side of motor.


The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.

The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.

The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.

While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.

Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.



Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.

You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.



Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.

Jun 26, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

2 Answers

Hi i have a 1994 dodge caravan it is leaking oil can this be fix im worry that we would have to save money for a van for my kids thanks


The Chrysler minivan products all had leaking problems. I have had 5 or 6 different Dodge or Plymouth minivans from 88 to 99. How bad is it. The most common thing is Valve cover leaks. Front and rear seals in the engine leak as well as the oil pan gasket. If its leaking a little bit at a time open the hood and look at the front and rear of the engine. Do you see grease and oil that has gone down the sides of the engine? Do you see a lot of grease on the engine with some clean streaks going through it. You may be able to see where its leaking from. If you know someone that knows what their doing have them change the leaky gasket/s. If not you can probably have it repaired for less than buying another van unless other things are seriously wrong with the van.
Hope this helps... Dale

Apr 21, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

What tool is needed to install a rear main seal on a 4.3l chevy s10 motor


There are seal drives . you might be able to get one at your local parts store . they may loan or rent this type of tool to you . Just ask them when you buy the seal or the gasket kit .Now to replace the seal you will need to remove the transmission to gain access to the rear main seal

Mar 06, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet S-10 CA Edition

1 Answer

How to repair front crankshaft seal leaks oil


Need to get at the crankshaft seal, usually by removing the crankshaft pulley and using a seal remover to take out the old seal, then put a new seal in.

Here are some instructions on how to do the 'rear' seal:
Rear Main Seal Removal & Installation 2.4L, 3.3L & 3.8L Engines To Remove:
  1. Remove the transaxle and flexplate. CAUTION
    Make sure not to damage the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the oil seal.
  2. Insert a flat-bladed pry tool or equivalent through the dust lip at an angle.
  3. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the engine. Pry against the chamfered edge of the crankshaft, do not damage the sealing surface of the crankshaft or an oil leak may occur.
To Install:
CAUTION
Smooth any burr or rough edge on the crankshaft with 400 grit sandpaper to prevent seal damage during installation.
NOTE: When installing seal, no lube on seal is needed.
  1. Place special tool 6926-1 seal guide or equivalent on crankshaft.
  2. Place the seal on the guide. Make sure the seal lip is facing the crankshaft and the guide tool remains on the crankshaft. Rear crankshaft seal installation (2.4L engine shown, 3.3L & 3.8L engines similar) chry-03-24-827.gif

    CAUTION
    Do not drive the seal into the block past flush. An oil leak may occur.
  3. Drive the seal into the block using a seal driver or special tool 6926-2 and handle C-4171 until the tool bottoms out against the block and the seal is flush.
  4. Install the flexplate and transaxle.
3.0L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the transaxle and flexplate. CAUTION
    Make sure not to damage the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the oil seal.
  2. Remove the oil seal with housing from the rear of the engine block.
  3. Remove the oil seal from the housing.
To Install:
  1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the seal housing and engine block.
  2. Use a commercial seal installer to install the seal in the seal housing.
  3. Apply a light film of motor oil to the seal lip.
  4. Apply silicone sealant to the oil seal housing sealing surface and install the housing with seal on the engine block. Tighten all bolts to 104 in. lbs. (12 Nm).
  5. Install the flexplate and transmission.
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Dec 31, 2010 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, it is supercharged 3800. I have about 115,000 miles on it and I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check fluids, regular preventative maintenance, etc. I noticed a small...


If it's oil, it's coming from the rear main seal.. I would go with this idea.

The seal doesn't cost much but the labor to get to it does.

To give you an idea what is involved the procedure is illustrated below from the service manual:

Removal & Installation 3.8L Engine To Remove:
  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the engine flywheel.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket. Rear seal removal 3.8L gm-03-38-1175.gif

  6. Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed.
NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
  1. Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
  2. Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
  3. Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated. NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
  4. Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal. NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
  5. Hand tighten the bolts. Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L gm-03-38-1176.gif

  6. Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
  7. Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
  8. Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
  9. Install the flywheel.
  10. Install the oil pan.
  11. Fill the engine oil and the cooling system.
  12. Check for leaks
5.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
  2. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear cover.
To Install:
  1. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal and rear cover oil seal bore.
  2. Install the tapered cone and bolts of a J 41479 or equivalent crankshaft rear oil seal installer onto the crankshaft.
  3. Place the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the tapered cone.
  4. Install the threaded rod of the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer into the tapered cone. Rear main seal installer 5.3L gm-03-53-3872.gif

  5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by turning the handle of the J 41479 clockwise.
  6. Remove the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer from the crankshaft.
  7. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
prev.gif next.gif--- I'm not sure what the exact cost would be as the hours were not listed for this procedure on my online resource.

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

Looks like the oil is leaking out right above the


oil filter screws onto an adapter housing which also has the pressure sending unit on it (above oil filter). This adapter housing bolts to the block with 3 bolts. if oil appears to be leaking from where the adapter housing meets the block (especially at the rear side of engine near bottom), then you need to replace the siamese o-rings between the adapter housing and the block ($12 part at dealer). remove lowest 12mm bolt and loosen top 2 12 mm bolts(top 2 bolts won't come out unless you drop the engine down, but loosening 1 inch is all you need), replace o-rings and retighten bolts. be careful not to get dirt/grit between block and adapter. just finished doing this to son's 95 2.7 v6 which was leaving an 8" puddle of oil after idling for only 1 minute-worked perfect

Feb 24, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

3 Answers

Bad oil leak 98 dodge neon it looks like from


oil sending unit, the unit screws into the block and has one wire coming out of it, if not then check the oil filter, make shure its tight,,, good luck

Dec 21, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Neon

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