Question about Cars & Trucks
Hi guys. Bought a 4.5yearold Honda CBF250 today. Serviced and examinated, new oil, new sparkplug, new tires, 6.7k miles. For about 2500bucks. Runs clean, sounds great, but when I'm in neutral and pull the clutch fully, switching to 1st gear the bike bounces forward a bit. I fear that this f**ks up the clutch. Does anyone know what could be wrong. thanks guys in advance Cheers
I think could two things. 1. A sticky clutch from being used for awhile. Are you starting it in gear with the clutch in or in neutral then engaging first. 2. You might need a slight adjustment on your clutch. Particully if there doesn't feel like much tension on the clutch lever.
Posted on Jan 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
What engine? Rear wheel drive ?Sounds like shift linkage or cable out of adjustment slightly. Have a look at where cable or rod attaches to transmission for adjustment. If not sure of what your looking for get back to me with info.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
I assume it's a manual transmission.
If the car will not roll backward or forward in neutral (with or without the clutch engaged) the transmission is most likely locked in two gears at the same time.
This may happen if gear selectors are excessively worn. If you are able to examine the gear selection levers external to the gearbox, ensure they are in the 'neutral' (no gear selected) position when the gear lever is in Neutral. If not in correct position, you may be able to manually reset the levers to correct neutral position and thereby unlock the gearbox.
In any case, if it's happened once, it will happen again, so get the gearbox and gear selection mechanism checked for wear or breakage.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
Your rattling noise in engine bay ,dose it do it only when you start up, and if so dose the rattle go when the oil light on dash goes out, If yes then its either Low in oil/your parking on a slope/engine bearings worn/oil filter change and change oil to 30/50 oil.
you should only downshift to 1st whan stopped but you can change up and down the g/box without a clutch with correct Revs
Posted on Sep 22, 2009
Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car
warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM
scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Also note that many problems that show up as transmission issues are actually PCM or electrical, and may be external to the transmission.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge ($55 shipped on Ebay, or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise.
1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accumulator housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.
1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
Here are the common things that may be happening to your transmission to what you have described. As for your transmission fluid being burn, that is a sign that your transmission is slipping. Your going to have to service the transmission again fluid and filter changed. Since your doing that you may want to replace the boost valve and shift servo. I did mine on my 4L60E and have over 365,000 miles so far, replacing the boost valve every 60,000 mile and it's only $45.00 and take less the 5 min to replace and the servo is around the same price. I did do the upgrade and have the corvette boost valve and servo in my transmission which helps a lot. The other thing to is B&M has a electronic shift controlled modulator you can install your self which would give you 3 settings and works great with the upgrades mentioned above.
Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted and try not to run the transmission too long with the burnt and dirty fluid. The dirt in the fluid will cause the electronic pressure control (EPC) valve to fail and will end up causing a $2,300.00 total transmission rebuilt over a simple $190.00 up grade and maintenance.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
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