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'04 Golf electrical / clutch problems

I have a 4 cylinder 2.0L 5 speed manual golf. Meets California DMV requirements. Driven three times a week, for about 25 miles weekly. (short trips only, no highway) I've had the car about a year and a half, third owner. This car has not been well loved prior to me, and unfortunately my car knowledge is limited to classic fords and chevys. The first issue with the electrical appeared about 2 months ago. The wipers would start themselves even with the arm in the "off position" I figured it was just a bit of... VW personality, as I had a 68 Beetle that did the same thing. Then after a few weeks the battery light began to come on while at an idle or driving at low RPM. It goes off while accelerating or when the RPM remains above 2500 or so. I figured it was the alternator or connectors. After having the problem resolve and reappear several times, today the ABS light blinked on and off. Since it's raining, I decided to take side streets rather than risk an accident. After a few blocks, the radio cut out and wouldn't power back on. The lights didn't dim, the car power remained, so I'm not sure the alternator is bad any more. The brakes seem to work fine (thankfully!) and the wipers still are a bit screwy. I've checked the wires and it's not the connections, but I'm reluctant to replace the alternator as it's fairly expensive ($250 USD, locally) and many people with similar problems claim this did not fix it. I do not have any check engine warnings, or other symptoms to date. The second problem is with the clutch. Since about 3 months after I purchased it, the car on occasion lurches or jerks into first gear much like when you try to shift into first at low RPM (like a choke/stall) however, it doesn't always do this and I watch to ensure that I'm not shifting poorly. It was rare enough I didn't particularly care, but within the last month it's becoming more and more frequent and now it's happening in second and once or twice so far in third. I've checked the fluid levels and had a mechanic check it out (naturally, the problem didn't happen for him either time I asked he look). He's stumped, says it's probably just shifting at too-low of RPM but even at 18-2000 rpm the problem occurs going in to first. at 35-4500+ it still happens in second where it used to shift smooth at as low as 2000. All of my cars have been manual transmission and this is the only one with an issue to date. Any suggestions?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: Oil light comes on and "bings" when the tack shows 1000 rpm.

I have no idea how many miles are on the van but 1st lets talk about the oil lite, it is telling u that the engine has less than 10 PSI of oil pressure, this may be the pressure sending unit on the engine is defective, if it does have low oil pressure then severe damage to the engine bearings can result, the click is most likely the contacts in the starter solenoid are burnt, they act up more cold and give the click you hear. I have no idea about the steering issue, without hearing it is almost imposs to diagnose such concerns. In closing I highly recommned that you address the low oil pressure concern ASAP

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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dennymulford
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SOURCE: Battery Light warning

check for bad or lose connection at the battery

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have 2002 audit quattro TT with 180k miles. When I do a normal acceleration the car surges and rpm drop but pick back up. If I accel hard it runs fine. Also at idle at times it varies 200 rpm like a

this sounds similar to a problem i had. as the rpm went over 2000 the engine would stop for a split second and then kick back in.
after a few days looking my garage finally found the problem was a faulty air mass meter.
this cost me £200 in total to be repaired.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 VW Jetta TDI Check Engine Light Issue

Try disconnecting the battery (unhook on of the terminals) wait for like 15 mins, hook the terminal once again and start the car. I also own a 2003 Jetta and once my engine light would come on after 2 mins of driving. Disconnecting the battery is like resetting the computer and hopefully the sensor.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

nvannoy
  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: electrical short

Your problem is pointing to the alternator. Since you say the alternator is only a year old, the I would check the tension on the belt (deflection should be about 1/2 an inch), and the belt itself. Your problem most likely lies in either the belt, belt tensioner (if applicable), or alternator.

Posted on Feb 23, 2010

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