Question about 2002 Land Rover Freelander

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02 Freelander, removing the radiator. Removed both hoses, removed the 4 screws, slide the shroud back and forth and it won't clear the timing belt cover.

The shroud is clear of any wiring or bolts, just won't come forward enough to clear the timing chain cover. If I'm missinf something I can't see it.

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  • Rodger Erhardt
    Rodger Erhardt Dec 03, 2012

    I have determined the front bumper assembly has to come off. Took all the screws out but it still won't come loose.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Engine Undertray

Yes you can drill them out, and replace them with more rivets, are i would replace them with small sheet metal screws. So later on if you had to remove this cover again. You could do this with no problem.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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What cover do you mean? If its the one on top of the engine,you need to remove the oil filler cap.

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Hi, there should certainly be a tensioner bolt.

Posted on Feb 27, 2011

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: I'm in the process of replacing the thermostat on

My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself.

The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum.

There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds.

First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum.

Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils.

The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head

The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove.

Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good.

The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off.

Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up.

Tools you will need to replace the thermostat;

1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better.
2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench
3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum
4. Ratchet wrench
5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well
6. Universal socket joint
7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work
8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness

Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way.


Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go.

Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool.

Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

Posted on Jul 30, 2012

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1 Answer

How to remove radiator on 2000 Lincoln Continental


RADIATOR
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine cooling system as described.
3. Remove engine air cleaner.
4. Remove upper radiator hose from water bypass tube.
5. Remove radiator overflow hose from radiator and fan shroud.
6. Remove transmission oil cooler line from oil cooler inlet fitting.
7. Remove nuts retaining A/C condenser core to the radiator.
8. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from the auxiliary electric cooling fan motors and the CCRM.
9. Raise vehicle on hoist.
10. Remove splash shield from lower radiator support and front sub-frame.
11. Remove lower radiator hose from radiator.
12. Remove oil transmission cooler line from oil cooler outlet fitting on radiator.
13. Remove retaining screws for power steering/transaxle oil cooler and position cooler aside.
14. Support fan shroud, radiator and A/C condenser core with a suitable jackstand. Remove lower radiator
support.
15. Position jackstand aside and carefully remove radiator and fan shroud.
16. Remove two retaining bolts for fan shroud at top of radiator and remove fan shroud from radiator.
17. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator.
NOTE: Loosen transmission oil cooler lines while securely holding radiator
connector with a back-up wrench.
NOTE: Loosen transmission oil cooler lines while securely holding radiator
connector with a back-up wrench.
18. Remove the radiator.

Oct 21, 2016 | Lincoln Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Remove and replace radiator


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
  1. Radiator Removal
    • 1 Open the radiator drain plug, located somewhere near the lowest point of the radiator, and let the coolant flow into a catch basin to drain it. Loosen the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant if your radiator does not have a drain plug.
    • 2 Detach the hoses from the radiator. Loosen the nose clamps and pull the hoses off of their attachment necks. Remove the auxiliary belts by sliding them off of their pulleys to gain more work room.


    • 3 Remove the engine cooling fan and the radiator shroud. This step is vehicle-specific, and no single process will cover all types of engines. In most cases, you have to use a wide box wrench to release the mounting bolt that holds the fan to the engine. Set your cooling fan down upright to protect its clutch. Loosen the mounting hardware that holds the shroud. You might have to pull the fan and the shroud out together if clearance does not permit you to pull them out separately.
    • 4 Remove any mounting screws, bolts, clips or other remaining attachment points. Put these pieces of hardware into a container so that you do not lose them.
    • 5 Lift the radiator clear of the engine. This can result in a mess of coolant as the radiator shifts around, so have newspaper and a catch basin underneath the radiator.
    Radiator Replacement
    • 6 Slide the replacement radiator into place. Handle it gently so you do not damage the delicate cooling fins or hose necks.
    • 7 Replace the mounting hardware. Torque them so you do not break the new radiator.
    • 8 Reinstall the cooling fan and the shroud by simply reversing the fan and shroud removal process.
    • 9 Reattach the cooling hoses to their mounting necks. Snug the hose clamps down, being careful not to over tighten. Consider replacing your cooling hoses at this time, as they become brittle and prone to failure with age. Replace them all if you replace one.
    • 10 Install and tension the auxiliary belts if you removed them to get more room to work. Slide them back over their pulleys and adjust tension by turning the tension adjustment nuts and bolts.
    Cooling Addition
    • 11 Mix the replacement coolant and distilled water in the right proportions for your vehicle and your climate.
    • 12 Pour the coolant into the proper fill area. Depending on your vehicle, you may pour the coolant directly into your replacement radiator, into your overflow reservoir or somewhere else.
    • 13 Run the engine to allow the coolant to circulate and add more as necessary.
    • 14 Bleed the air from the system. There will be a bleed valve somewhere in the system, although its location will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Open the valve with a wrench and watch for bubbles. You know your radiator replacement is done when no more air bubbles bleed from the system and your coolant is fully up to temperature.

Oct 18, 2012 | 2005 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

Water pump replacement procedures


This my proceduces of replacing the water pump, hope help.
1. First I removed the Air Intake tube.
2. Then I unscrewed the Fan Shroud. One bolt on either side at the top. The shroud slides in at the bottom.
3. Using rental tools, I loosened the main fan nut(shown). Yes, I am aware I still have the belt on.
3A. Fan and shroud removed

4. Loosen the Fan Pulley bolts. Having the belt still on puts tension on said pulley making it easier to get the bolts loose and off.
5. With the bolts loosened on the pulley, I removed the Serp. Belt
5A. Removing bolts
5B. Everything removed so far.
6. I removed the Idler Pulley(pulley to the right of the alternator) for easier access to the water pump bolts. Saved some time and knuckles.
7. I drained the radiator. The drain plug is the plastic, white wing nut at the bottom, middle of the picture. It is just below the black tab the shroud slides into.
8. I removed all the bolts on the water pump. I believe there were 12 of them. Take your time. It's slow going and a bit frustrating. Here is a pic of the water pump removed.
8A. If you remove the lower Radiator Hose at the radiator, you can drain more of the coolant and avoid making a bit of a mess like I did.
9. I cleaned the sealing surface of the block with a scraper and a scouring pad. Again, take your time and be patient. You want a good seal.
10. New pump on along with the Fan Pulley. I tightened down the bolts in as criss-cross a pattern as I could. Use torque specs per shop manual.
11. After I put everything back together, I did a flush of the system until I got clear water out of the bottom hose. It takes a few cycles but again, worth the effort. Fill with fresh coolant and burp the system. I also changed the radiator hoses and the thermostat at this time as well.

Jul 12, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Tundra

1 Answer

Water pump going out how do i replace it


  • Removal of the Fan Shroud and Drive Belts
    • 1 Drain the cooling system. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the petcock valve on the lower corner of the radiator. Open the petcock valve to drain the system.
    • 2 Remove the bolts that connect the fan shroud to the radiator core and remove the fan shroud.
    • 3 Loosen the alternator adjustment bolt and slide the alternator toward the engine. Remove the drive belt.
    • 4 Loosen the adjustment bolt for the air conditioning compressor, and slide the compressor toward the engine. Remove the drive belt.
    • 5 Loosen the adjustment bolt on the power steering pump and slide the pump toward the engine. Remove the drive belt.
  • Removal of the Water Pump
    • 1 Disconnect the bypass hose from the water pump by loosening the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the fitting.
    • 2 Remove the bolts that connect the water pump to the engine block, and remove the water pump and engine fan as an assembly.
    • 3 Remove the four retaining nuts that connect the fan assembly to the water pump. They will be located between the fluid coupling and the water pump pulley.
  • Installation of the Water Pump
    • 1 Attach the fan assembly to the new water pump by sliding the pulley then the fluid coupling onto the water pump and reinstalling the retaining nuts.
    • 2 Clean any old gasket material off the water pump mounting surface on the engine block.
    • 3 Place the new water pump gasket on the water pump mounting surface.
    • 4 Slide the new water pump into position and reinstall the mounting bolts.
    • 5 Reconnect the bypass hose by sliding the hose over the fitting and tightening the hose clamp.
  • Reinstalling the Drive Belts and Fan Shroud
    • 1 Reinstall the the drive belts for the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor and alternator. Tighten the adjusting bolts.
    • 2 Measure the deflection of each belt to make sure the belts are properly tightened. Measure deflection by placing a straight edge along the belt against the accessory pulley and the water pump pulley. Push down on the belt and measure the distance between the belt at the midpoint and the straight edge. It should be between 1/2 and 1/4 inch. Any more and the belt needs to be tightened. Loosen the adjustment and slide the accessory away from the engine to tighten.
    • 3 Drop the fan shroud into position and reinstall the bolts that secure it to the radiator.
    • 4 Close the petcock valve on the radiator and fill the cooling system with fresh coolant.
    • 5 Run the engine and visually inspect for leaks.



  • Dec 15, 2010 | 1992 Toyota Celica

    1 Answer

    I need to remove the cooling fan shroud from my 1995 Lincoln Continental. How is the easiest way to go about this?


    Engine Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3.8L Engines
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.
    3. Disengage the electrical connector, then remove the integrated relay control/constant control relay module assembly located on the radiator support.
    4. Disconnect the fan electrical connector. Fig. 1: Disengage the fan electrical connector 86873115.jpg

    5. If necessary, remove the air bag crash sensor.
    6. Unbolt the fan/shroud assembly from the radiator and remove. Fig. 2: Unbolt the fan assembly from the radiator 86873116.jpg
      Fig. 3: Remove the fan from the engine 86873117.jpg
      Fig. 4: Slide the fan as an assembly up and away from the radiator. Be careful not to dislodge the mounting stud on the left side. 93143p56.jpg

    7. Remove the retainer and the fan from the motor shaft and unbolt the fan motor from the shroud.
    8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedures. Tighten the fan shroud retaining bolt to 23–33 inch lbs. (2.6–3.7 Nm). Tighten the fan shroud retaining nut to 71–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). Fig. 5: Constant control relay module location — 3.8L engines 86873118.gif
    4.6L Engine
    1. Loosen the fan clutch-mounting shaft from the water pump hub.
    2. Loosen the fan shroud from its radiator mounting and remove the lower hose from the shroud.
    3. Lift the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud from the vehicle.
    4. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
      Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
    5. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15–20 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm).
    6. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud. Mount the fan clutch shaft to the water pump hub and tighten to 37–46 ft. lbs. (50–62 Nm).
    7. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws. Fig. 6: Fan and fan clutch assembly — 4.6L engine 84173064.jpg
    5.0L Engines
    1. Loosen the fan clutch-to-water pump hub retaining bolts.
    2. If necessary, remove the drive belt from the water pump pulley.
    3. Remove the fan shroud upper retaining screws. Lift the shroud to disengage it from the lower retaining clips.
    4. Remove the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts and remove the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
    5. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
      Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
    6. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts evenly and alternately to 12–18 ft. lbs. (16–24 Nm).
    7. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
    8. Install the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts.
    9. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws.
    10. If removed, install the water pump drive pulley and adjust the belt tension; refer to Section 1.
    11. Tighten the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts evenly and alternately to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm). Recheck the belt tension.
    prev.gif next.gif

    Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Lincoln Continental

    1 Answer

    How do you replace a radiator in a dodge shadow 1993


    These are the instructions for a 4 cylinder motor.

    1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.

    CAUTION Do NOT remove the cylinder block or the radiator draincock with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
    1. Drain the cooling system.
    2. Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the radiator. Remove the coolant reserve system tank-to-filler neck tube.
    3. Remove the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped.
    4. Remove the fan and fan support assembly by disconnecting the fan motor electrical wiring.
    5. Remove the fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and bottom of the shroud for most of the vehicles (the Dynasty has them only on the top).
    6. Lift the shroud up and out of the bottom shroud attachment clips separating the shroud from the radiator. Avoid damaging the fan.
    7. Remove the upper radiator mounting screws. Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if so equipped.
    8. Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the top front of the radiator, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning.
    9. Lift the radiator free of the engine compartment.
    Care should be taken to NOT damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal or installation.
    To install:
    1. Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support.
    2. Attach the air conditioning condenser to the radiator, if so equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. (44 N) to seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
    3. Tighten the radiator mounting screws to 108 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    4. Connect the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped. Tighten the hose clamps to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
    5. Slide the fan shroud, fan and motor down into the clips on the lower radiator flange. Install new shroud retaining clips.
    6. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses (including the coolant reserve hose).
    7. Plug the fan motor electrical connection and attach the negative (-) battery cable.
    8. Fill the cooling system with coolant (refer to Section 1 for more details).
    9. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle (if equipped) for the correct fluid levels. Also check for coolant leaks.
    Here are the instruction for a 6 cylinder engine.
    6-Cylinder Engines
    1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.

    CAUTION Do NOT remove the cylinder block or the radiator draincock with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
    1. Drain the cooling system.
    2. Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the radiator. Remove the coolant reserve system tank to filler neck tube.



    1. Remove the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped.
    2. Remove the fan and fan support assembly by disconnecting the fan motor electrical wiring.
    3. Remove the fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and bottom of the shroud for most of the vehicles (the New Yorker, Dynasty, Fifth Ave., and Imperial have them only on the top).
    4. Lift the shroud up and out of the bottom shroud attachment clips separating the shroud from the radiator. Avoid damaging the fan.
    5. Remove the upper radiator mounting screws. Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if so equipped.
    6. Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the top front of the radiator, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning.
    7. Lift the radiator free of the engine compartment.
    Care should be taken NOT to damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal or installation.


    To install:
    1. Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support.
    2. Attach the air conditioning condenser to the radiator, if so equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. (44 N) to seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
    3. Tighten the radiator mounting screws to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
    4. Connect the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped. Tighten the hose clamps to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
    5. Slide the fan shroud, fan and motor down into the clips on the lower radiator flange. Install new shroud retaining clips.
    6. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses (including the coolant reserve hose).
    7. Plug the fan motor electrical connection and attach the negative (-) battery cable.
    8. Fill the cooling system with coolant (refer to Section 1 for more details).
    9. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle for the correct fluid levels. Also check for coolant leaks.
    please let me know if i can assist you in any further problems you may encounter with your vehicle.
    please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.


    Dec 27, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Shadow

    3 Answers

    I have a 97 Lincoln Continental. I am trying to replace the cooling fan. I have the shroud loose but can't figure out how to get out. Any help would helpful. Thanks


    YOU NEED TO TAKE IT OUT FROM THE BOTTOM REMOVE PLASTIC SHROUD THEN DRIAN AND PULL LOWER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR AND THE REST IS PRETTY SELF EXPLANATORY MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CLIPS FOR THE WIRRING BEFORE YOU EVEN START

    May 09, 2009 | 1997 Lincoln Continental

    2 Answers

    1997 Nissan Pickup 4 cyl radiator replacement


    Basic mechanical experience is all you need. Remove the intake tube, fan, fan shroud, upper and lower hoses and it comes right out. I think you can do the whole job with a 10mm wrench and a phillips screwdriver. (Maybe a couple other tools, but no special ones.) Be sure to get a 1" core radiator and not the stock 1/2" core, for added cooling capacity.

    Apr 06, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Pickup

    1 Answer

    I want to put a new radiator in my 2000 mazda mpv minivan


    Radiator Removal Step1Open the radiator drain plug, located somewhere near the lowest pointof the radiator, and let the coolant flow into a catch basin to drainit. Loosen the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant if yourradiator does not have a drain plug. Step2Detach the hoses from the radiator. Loosen the nose clamps and pull thehoses off of their attachment necks. Remove the auxiliary belts bysliding them off of their pulleys to gain more work room. Step3 Remove the enginecooling fan and the radiator shroud. This step is vehicle-specific, andno single process will cover all types of engines. In most cases, youhave to use a wide box wrench to release the mounting bolt that holdsthe fan to the engine. Set your cooling fan down upright to protect itsclutch. Loosen the mounting hardware that holds the shroud. You mighthave to pull the fan and the shroud out together if clearance does notpermit you to pull them out separately. Step4Remove any mounting screws, bolts, clips or other remaining attachmentpoints. Put these pieces of hardware into a container so that you donot lose them. Step5Lift the radiator clear of the engine. This can result in a mess ofcoolant as the radiator shifts around, so have newspaper and a catchbasin underneath the radiator. Radiator Replacement Step1Slide the replacement radiator into place. Handle it gently so you donot damage the delicate cooling fins or hose necks. Step2 Replace the mounting hardware. Torque them so you do not break the new radiator. Step3 Reinstall the cooling fan and the shroud by simply reversing the fan and shroud removal process. Step4Reattach the cooling hoses to their mounting necks. Snug the hoseclamps down, being careful not to over tighten. Consider replacing yourcooling hoses at this time, as they become brittle and prone to failurewith age. Replace them all if you replace one. Step5Install and tension the auxiliary belts if you removed them to get moreroom to work. Slide them back over their pulleys and adjust tension byturning the tension adjustment nuts and bolts. Cooling Addition Step1 Mix the replacement coolant and distilled water in the right proportions for your vehicle and your climate. Step2Pour the coolant into the proper fill area. Depending on your vehicle,you may pour the coolant directly into your replacement radiator, intoyour overflow reservoir or somewhere else. Step3 Run the engine to allow the coolant to circulate and add more as necessary. Step4Bleed the air from the system. There will be a bleed valve somewhere inthe system, although its location will vary from vehicle to vehicle.Open the valve with a wrench and watch for bubbles. You know yourradiator replacement is done when no more air bubbles bleed from thesystem and your coolant is fully up to temperature.

    Mar 16, 2009 | 2000 Mazda MPV

    1 Answer

    HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ON A 99 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ?


    At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
    16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.

    Dec 24, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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