Question about Cars & Trucks
I hit a big pothole that caused what I thought was the tension strut to control arm bushing to wear through completely. I replaced both the lower control arm and the tension strut bushing.....however the bolt that goes through that bushing popped out of the end of the tension strut leaving the car in a no drive condition. I dont know where to start, do I replace the whole tension strut? I found some people had done some sort of weld but I was advised by a few people that would not be a good idea.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you torn the ball joint out, you very well could have more damage.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, I would put the car up on stands, and take the front wheel off, and do a through examination of the whole assembly.
Once you have a complete assesement of all of the damage you can go to your local parts house and get the parts.
If you have to replace the lower arm, you will need probably need some specialized tools (like a spring compressor).
After you're done changing parts, you will need to get a front end alignment.
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
I had a similar problem with a popping - clanking noise when I was turning the Steering Wheel and going at a slow speed.
See if you can have someone listen outside the car while you drive it to be sure.
I replaced the one drive axle and the problem was solved.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
put the front tires on the back and see if it changes.
alot of times,if the suspension is defective it wears the tires uneven ,out of round.
check and make sure the wheel nuts are tight and torqued properly.
alot of techs use just the gun,and not a torque stick and overtighten the wheel nuts.
Posted on May 14, 2009
With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
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