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Tension strut pops out of control arm

I hit a big pothole that caused what I thought was the tension strut to control arm bushing to wear through completely. I replaced both the lower control arm and the tension strut bushing.....however the bolt that goes through that bushing popped out of the end of the tension strut leaving the car in a no drive condition. I dont know where to start, do I replace the whole tension strut? I found some people had done some sort of weld but I was advised by a few people that would not be a good idea.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Right lower ball joint. Torn loose

If you torn the ball joint out, you very well could have more damage.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, I would put the car up on stands, and take the front wheel off, and do a through examination of the whole assembly.
Once you have a complete assesement of all of the damage you can go to your local parts house and get the parts.
If you have to replace the lower arm, you will need probably need some specialized tools (like a spring compressor).
After you're done changing parts, you will need to get a front end alignment.

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

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jackiaria
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SOURCE: 2002 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN Steering Noise

I had a similar problem with a popping - clanking noise when I was turning the Steering Wheel and going at a slow speed.
See if you can have someone listen outside the car while you drive it to be sure.
I replaced the one drive axle and the problem was solved.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Lower Control Arm Bushing replacement

Hi,
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
JOEVETTE

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • 1348 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Hyundai Sonata front end wobbles.

put the front tires on the back and see if it changes.
alot of times,if the suspension is defective it wears the tires uneven ,out of round.
check and make sure the wheel nuts are tight and torqued properly.
alot of techs use just the gun,and not a torque stick and overtighten the wheel nuts.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Durango clunking noise in front end can

With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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What could be wrong with my tire if it bows in


Bows in at top or bottom? More than likely
you need your suspension aligned. The tire just follows the suspension. Misalignment can cause tire wear and handling problems. Front wheel drive cars need 4 wheel alignment to insure the back isn't steering the front. Other causes are shock/strut or control arm bushing wear or failure. Tie rod ends or idler arm wear can cause tire wear as well.
All parts should be tight and serviceable before alignment.

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I have a 04 saab my pass wheel is leaning in. Why?


Have the alignment checked for a camber issue. Have you hit anything recently ( curb/pothole ) that may have caused this issue? Camber angles, if not in specification will cause tire wear and pulling. Most but not all vehicles have a provision for camber adjustment. Worst case scenerio is something is bent and may have to be replaced to correct your problem

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Car shakes bad 60 - 70


Control arm bushings would have been my 1st guess.
Struts/shocks are a possibility. (the top mount bushing on the struts)
Get the tires balanced..... that can cause vibration.

Mar 19, 2014 | Oldsmobile Cars & Trucks

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Got a rattle on the front of my pont g8 gt changed the sway bar link's so thats not it what else could iy be


I would check the lower control arms/ball joints and strut bushings. Both are a known common issues and many cars had the lower control arms and strut bushings replaced under warranty. It is suspected the strut bushing failures were caused by the suspension being compressed for shipping from down under. There are improved 3rd party aftermarket parts available. The strut bushings may not exhibit any free play on a lift. Check google and youtube for more info on how to diagnose each.

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Jaguar xtype front rattle when hitting pothole sounds like comes from both sides.. might it be shocks ?/ 150.000 km on clock


More likely cause are control arm bushings or tie rod ends, or ball joints. Drag link bushings can also be at issue. If you are handy, get a very large pair of channel lock pliers and locate every suspension mounting point you can find that has a dust boot and connects to a suspension part. These are usually ball shaped things with a stud that passes through another part and is secured with a large nut and cotter pin. If you carefully clamp the part with the pliers--such as tie rod ends--so as not to damage the dust boot, you may find it has some free play. If so, that may be the culprit. Any free play in any of your suspension parts could be the problem. You mentioned shocks...the top of the shock absorber strut has bushings which sometimes do wear out, but based on your description, it sounds like a worn suspension bushing or pivot point.

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How to chnge control arm bushing on 1994 dodge intrepid


Here are the instruction on how to replace your control arm bushing. please not that there is a special tool needed that you will need to get from you auto parts retailer. you can usually rent these tools.
    1. Turn the control arm over in the arbor press, then position the arm so that it is supported by the receiver tool MB-990799 as shown.
  1. Position the new bushing into the control arm so it is square with the bushing hole. Position the installer tool MB-6644-1 or equivalent on top of the bushing, with the bushing setting in the recessed area of the installer tool. Press the bushing into the control arm.
  2. Press the control arm bushing into the control arm until the installer tool squarely bottoms against the surface of the control arm. When the installer tool squarely bottoms on the control arm, the bushing is installed in the arm in the correct position.
  3. Install the tension strut into the strut bushing in the control arm. Position the tension strut in the control arm with the word FRONT stamped in the tension strut positioned away from the control arm. With an open end wrench on the flat of the tension strut to stop the tension strut from turning. Tighten the NEW tension strut-to-control arm retaining nut to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
  4. Install the lower control arm and tension strut back onto the vehicle. Refer to the Lower Control Arm procedure earlier in this section.


Control Arm-to-Tension Strut Bushing
To replace the control arm tension strut bushing, the control arm and tension strut assembly must be removed. The removal of the bushing requires the use of an arbor press.
  1. Thoroughly lubricate the replacement tension strut bushing, control arm and installer tool 6644-3 or equivalent with a silicone lubricant.
  2. By hand, install the tension strut bushing into the large end of the installer tool. Press the bushing into the installer tool as far as it will go by hand.
  3. Position the control arm in the arbor press so that the tension strut hole in the control arm is centered on the receiver tool MB-990799 or equivalent. Position the installer tool with the previously installed bushing, inside of the tension strut bushing hole in the control arm. Position the installer tool on top of the tension strut bushing. Using the arbor press, press the tension strut bushing into the control arm. As the bushing is being pressed into the arm, a pop will be heard. When the pop is heard, the installer tool will slightly move up off the control arm. At this time remove the control arm assembly from the press and pull the tool MB-6644-3 off of the tension strut bushing in the control arm.


Jun 19, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Intrepid

4 Answers

I have an 06 Cobalt LS with a very annoying knocking sound coming from the front end. Someone told me it was the stabliizer bar links. I thought it was a strut problem because of the wet marks around both...


It is most likely the control arm bushings. These are notorious for going out on Cobalts. I have had mine replaced twice.

The control arms on both the driver and passenger side have rubber bushings which probably deteriorated. This is causing metal to hit metal when the car goes over bumps.

The bushings themselves are relatively inexpensive; you can most likely pick them up at a dealership for under $40. The only issue is installing them. You have to use a hydraulic press to press the old bushings out and press the new bushings in. This isn't difficult, but you need the equipment.

May 26, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

1 Answer

Right negative camber.....is it adjustable? The toe was out of adjustment........when adjusted to specs the camber was still -2.3 degrees


Camber is the lean "off perpendicular" of the wheel. This error could be worn control arm bushings or something bent from a collision or pothole curb hit. Jack up the car from the lower control arm, not the frame. This will keep weight on the front suspension same as if it's on the ground. With the tire about 2 inches off the ground and the car wheels chocked safely, now you can check for wear. Do not get under the car !!!! Use about a 2 foot steel bar or pipe, placed under the wheel. Now lifting up see if there is loosness , clunking of the wheel or movement of the control arm bushings.

Feb 05, 2010 | 2006 Mazda 3

4 Answers

2003 mitsubishi outlander rear tires tilt in


Had a similar problem with a different car. Rear struts / spings were worn. Caused rear to sag enough to push wheels out and wear out inside portion of tires.

Dec 13, 2009 | 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander

1 Answer

Need to replace the lower control Arm. Is there a procedure available?


Please be mindful to carefully note the position of the old parts as you disassemble the suspension, then follow these steps to do the re-installation:

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. Remove and discard the tension strut-to-control arm nut, then pull off the dished washer.

When separating the control arm from the steering knuckle, do not use a hammer. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

5. Remove and discard the control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a small prybar, spread the pinch joint slightly, then separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. A drift punch may be used to remove the bolt, but be very careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward, or the tripod CV-joint internal parts could separate, causing failure of the joint.

6. Remove and discard the lower control arm inner pivot bolt and nut.

7. Remove the lower control arm from the frame and the tension strut.

INSTALLATION

Make sure the front washer is at the strut-to-lower control arm attachment.

8. Insert the strut into the inner bushing.

9. Position the lower control arm into the subframe bracket, using a new nut and bolt. Tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

10. Assemble the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle, making sure the ball stud groove is positioned properly. Be very careful not to damage the lower control arm seal.

11. Insert a new pinch bolt and nut, then tighten to 40-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

12. Clean the strut threads to remove dirt and/or debris.

13. Install the dished washer, with its dished side away from the control arm bushing. Install a new nut on the strut and tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

14. Install the wheel and tire assembly, tightening the lug nuts to 85-105 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm), then carefully lower the vehicle.

I hope this helps.

Aug 17, 2009 | 1994 Ford Taurus

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