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Shuttering, blinking check engine light and error p1296

Two weeks ago my check engine light came on with error p1296, I took it to a local garage and he looked it over cleared the code and it ran fine and he couldn't fine anything wrong! The coolant is fine and t seemed to run fine! This morning it shuttered and the engine light started blinking! Pulled over shut it off and restarted and it did it again! Could this still just be the sensor or has anyone got any clues? Thanks for any help!!

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  • jill_r_king
    jill_r_king Dec 03, 2012

    I will be sure to check my fuel filter and my wires, but my coolant is full and no other lights are on! Ii had my cad. Converter replaced last year! Anything else I should look for? The fu

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: check engine light on - 2003 gmc envoy XL

That code represents a lower than expected reading for temperature (coolant). First thing to do is check your coolant level, as if it is low, then the sensor can not read correctly. Second, you may have a thermostat that is stuck open, allowing the coolant to cool off too much. The sensor should be mounted on top of the engine, near the thermostat housing.

Posted on May 18, 2008

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SOURCE: 1999 pontiac grand prix . will not run

If wiggling the wires cured the code, then one of the wires is broken inside the insulation. Pull on each wire one at a time. look for the colored insulation to stretch, this will be the broken wire. For the other car that wont rev up, this is a common when the catalytic concverter is plugged up. This will also cause MAF codes, and in turn, TRAC OFF light.
See http://www.greatautohelp.com

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

motor1258
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SOURCE: Mitsubishi shogun error ABS light/error codes

First of all, lets forget the ABS light for now. I take it the car doesn't even start and/or run correct?
Second, has anyone taken the connector off at the ECU located normally on the passenger side behind or above the kick panel by passengers right foot. That would be a good place to start.Remove the connector and clean it and all the contacts well with electrical cleaner, or tuner cleaner. Sometimes just removing it and re-installing it will help the connection. If there is any corrosion etc in there it can cause nightmares. Next take a real close look at all your ground straps that run from body to engine, frame to body etc., and make sure they are good. Also, check that battery is fully charged and in good shape, and all connections to it are good. Let me know any other details you can about whether it will start at all etc.

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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SOURCE: 2002 Ford F250 with a 7.3 liter runs but no power

Hi,
First of all I would like to start with this bit of information for you. Most scan tools will not pick up fault codes on a 7.3L diesel. I keep an Actron pocket code reader with me at work to diagnose the gas engines, but when it comes to the diesels I have to use the Ford IDS system to get fault codes. I can't explain why, but thats just how it is.
Now on to your problem........... Without fault codes to go by, I am going to make an educated guess as to what is happening to your engine based on the most common concerns I see with these engines. My guess (based on your description of the concern) would be that one of the fuel injector wiring harnesses located under the left or right valve covers is becoming dislodged. I see this alot and as a matter of fact I just repaired one this past friday.
Since we dont have a fault code to tell us which bank has the bad connection, you will have to remove both valve covers and check where the wiring connects to the valve cover gasket. These connectors, over time, tend to loosen and move away from the valve cover gasket connector causing you to lose up to 4 cylinders, when the engine cools down a bit they regain the connection and work fine. The connectors don't have to move much either for this to happen.
You can go to Ford and buy a new under the valve cover harness for $$$ or you can simply install a plastic wire tie to keep the connector in place. The choice is yours. I would also like to add that if you do this job yourself you will have to remove the big intake hoses that go from your intercooler to the engine. It is critical that you clean the ends of these tubes to remove any oil residue before reinstalling them. You also want to torque the tube clamps to 18 ft lbs when you reinstall. Tighter is not better, they will blow off under pressure.
I also want to add that your truck was involved in a recall (07S57) for the camshaft position sensor. If it hasn't been replaced yet call your Ford dealer with your vin number and ask about it. When this cmp sensor goes bad it will shut the engine off leaving you stranded.
I hope some or all of this helps you!

Posted on May 16, 2010

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