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It's caused by a lack of spark which can be either the ECU's fault (on EFI cars), or the coil on pretty much any car. Heat causes expansion inside the coils, and over heats. So when vehicle warms up, it gets hot. God-Bless! also check the wiring good to the crankshaft sensor.
Either your heater blend door is failing, your core is plugged, or you have poor coolant circulation. checking the temp of both heater hoses will rule out the core usually. (Warm engine, heater ON, both hoses should be HOT and near same temperature). If 1 hose is hot and the other cold, your core may be plugged. If both hoses are HOT, and still no heat inside, your heater box is likely not directing the warm air properly on the interior. If neither hose is hot or warm, and heater is ON, your heater control valve should be checked to make sure it is flowing coolant to the heater.
If all THAT seems to pass (heater valve definitely open) an d still low or not heat inside and both hoses the same, your water pump may not be making enough flow to feed the engine and the heater. Typically if this is the problem, holding the engineat high rev (3000+) for 5-10 minutes will cause the heater to warm up mostly, and then dropping the RPM to 1000 or 1500 you will feel it cool off rapidly. If that is the case, you will need cooling system repairs.
Hello Tori, I think you have a heat related ignition failure. Your truck runs fine until an electrical component warms up and quits running but will restart after it cools down. I suspect you have a bad ignition module and/or bad pick up coil inside of the distributor.
1- first off, it takes a good, engine thermostat to get good heat.
(input) (its called a heat exhanger) bad input ,gives bad output.
we connect a scan tool an see ECT at 180F or more, holding and in the normal driving distances, if you STAT is 2001, its old and slow, get it out of there. if true. old stats can cause overheating and engine damage to any sign of sluggishness or wrong temps, its kicked to the curb, fast. ( if a smart cookie) LOL.
Second, is the fan, yours works. end fan.
Third,are the dampers , these must change at your command.
the FSM covers these tests. do you want to do them.?
I'm not familiar with the Renault specifically, but most vehicles have a method of dealing with carburetor icing. When the weather is cool and damp and the air is sucked into either a carburetor or throttle body, the air pressure changes. Inside the intake manifold there is a significant vacuum condition. That sudden drop in air pressure causes the air temperature to drop significantly and can cause humidity in the air to condense on any available surface. While the rest of the engine is quite hot, the air intake can be quite cold. After running for a period of time, an ice ball can develop on the inside of the air intake; when that occurs, the engine will be incapable of proper operation and can stop running, at which point the heat from the engine will diffuse, warming the intake and melting the ice. To solve that problem, most vehicle manufacturers use a carburetor de-icing system that basically consists of a tube that runs from around the exhaust manifold up to the air intake. By the time any ice can start to build up on the inside of the air intake, the outside of the exhaust manifold has become quite warm, and any air that passes the exhaust manifold is heated enough to prevent the icing problem. So the short answer is, make certain that the tube is in place, provided that Renault's used that system.
Overheating can seriously damage a car's engine if left unchecked. Although overheating simply means that a car's engine temperature exceeds normal operating temperatures, the causes of overheating are varied. What follows is a brief list of some of the most common causes of engine overheating.
A car that overheats will often have a faulty radiator. A radiator is responsible for cooling hot engine coolant that picks up heat from inside a car's running engine. A radiator "radiates" the heat from engine coolant out into the outside air. A faulty radiator loses its "radiating" effects and allows engine coolant to become overheated, thus rendering it ineffective at adequately cooling and engine.
Faulty Water Pump
A faulty or malfunctioning water pump prevents adequate engine coolant flow and can cause a car to overheat. A water pump serves to pressurize and propel engine coolant throughout a car's engine and radiator to increase the heat-reducing capabilities of engine coolant. A faulty water pump loses its ability to adequately pump and propel engine coolant, and can cause a car to overheat.
Coolant System Leaks
A leaky engine coolant system reduces the level of circulating engine coolant, which increases engine temperature and leads to engine overheating. Radiators, water pumps, and coolant system hoses and seals--all of these coolant system parts can develop leaks, which can result in low coolant levels and engine overheating.
A car thermostat regulates the flow of engine coolant. A thermostat is a heat-sensitive valve that opens when a car engine reaches a set operating temperature and closes when a car engine is cold and warming up. If a thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant will be prevented from reaching the engine, which will quickly lead to engine overheating and potential engine damage.
Low Engine Oil Level
Engine oil, in addition to lubricating an engine's internal parts, helps to keep engine operating temperatures reduced by eliminating friction within the engine. If engine oil levels are low, friction and heat build up inside an engine, a condition that causes increased engine operating temperatures and can lead to engine overheating.
There may not be enough coolant in the system. What happends is the heating core is nothing more than a small radiator inside the car. If the fluid is low the heating core is empty. But once you start driving the water pump works harder and fills it up. Another possible cause is a sticking thermostat. If its stuck open the engine cant retain water to heat it up. Thus blowing cold air. Whith the engine cold remove the radiator cap and check your coolant level. If it is full a replacement thermostat may be needed. HTH and dont forget to rate.
What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.
Check the coolant level. in the winter time It will not over heat very easily but vapor locks can occur and low coolant level will do what your describing ...When you drive the water pump is spinning faster causing coolant to intermittently flow through the heater core so it gets warm then cold at an idle.. also a thermostat that is stuck open will also cause this its also in the cooling system, if the cooling system is full I would replace the thermostat..good luck hope this helps