Question about 1991 Ford F250
Previous owner hooked battery charger backwards dumba** i replaced cap rotor pretty much everything on ignition side except for module was thinking computer it self but tryin not to spend 200 if dont have to and also can i check the codes with out a tester like i heard or is that for different models
Change your starter solenoid, not the starter solenoid that is on the starter itself but the starter solenoid that is located in the engine compartment and it is in the area of the vehicle's main battery. That battery/starter solenoid is most likely the problem and it only cost between $10.00 to $20.00 dollars. Max. This is the first part of the troubleshooting process for your vehicle. If this work's kindly leave me a message. And if that is not the problem, The next thing to do is make sure all your battery terminal's are tight and clean of all corrosion. but always use caution when working on a car, SUV or truck battery especially when removing a positive battery terminal. remember to always use caution and wear gloves when working on a vehicle's battery which contain's battery acid, and is also combustible. If that does not solve your problem check the battery for cold cranking amp's which should read between 9 and 12 volt's on start and maintain a 12 volt during idle. This is a few of the first troubleshooting processes I would use. Sincerely CRYSTOPPER.
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have spark coming from the coil to the dist by using a screw driver to ground it to something and got spark and then tried it again and got nothing. I am not sure what the hi tension lead is ( sorry) and were is it located on the coil? if so I did try the spark on the coil.
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
SOURCE: wont start
if i drive my bronco to work shut it off it wont start sounds like it has a dead battery if i let it sit for an hour it will start back up can you tell me if you know what it is
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
Sounds alot like the ignition sensor. In my old Chevys it was under the dist cap, mounted on the dist itself. Mine was flat, slightly curved rectangle shape, with two flat prongs coming out both sides. If it would get an internal break in it, you cant see it. I would have the same problem as you, part was only about $12. And comes out with unscrewing two screws.
Might want to give it a shot.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.
Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.
Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.
Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).
If no dwell signal, then...
1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.
This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.
2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.
3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.
4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.
5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.
If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.
If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.
If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
SOURCE: 89 FORD F-150 ENGINE IS
The TFI module is on the side of the distributor but I would recommend replacing the module and stator witch is inside the distributor..... Have you checked to see if you have voltage to the coil?
Posted on Aug 28, 2010
Testimonial: "THANKS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED 4 THUMBS UP"
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