92 300zx rpm will not go over 2500 rpm pops from intake
1992 300 zx non turbo ,starts good will not rev moor than 2500 rpm ,and sounds like it hits a rev limiter and pops from intate ,but on the throttle position switch it has 3 wires from plug but i can only find 2 from the harness to the plug were dose the 3rd come from
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Re: 92 300zx rpm will not go over 2500 rpm pops from...
This is a classic symptom of a bad mass airflow sensor. Nissan designed this as a protective feature on the car. If the mass air sensor goes bad, the computer limits the car to a 2400RPM rev limit to prevent damage.
The sensor is under the center nose panel between the headlights. Take that off and on the back of the airbox (which fills this space) you'll see a pipe coming out that meets at a "T" with another hose going across and down under the headlights. That pipe off the back of the airbox is the mass air sensor (it has a harness plugged in).
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@jgamble112, sinse it is a specific rpm, 2500, which is where the rev limiter is usually set to stop the engine when reving up, it sounds like the engine control module, or computer as it is commonly called, this is what controls the rev limitermine had smae problem, same rpm, and in gear too, its only supposed to work when in nuetral, but sometimes the computer doesnt recognize the vehicle has been shifted, hope this helps
Sounds like you could have an aux air regulator valve, that is not
working when it will not work; there is no fast idle cold. Should be around 1500 rpm cold, the car will stall out and pop through the intake when bad. You have a digital volt meter to do some testing with to make sure the mass air flow is working correctly. Also, check the plugs for how they're burning, check the air filter for good flow, do a compression test and judge from there. Intake backfire is usually caused by running lean or improper timing.
For the 79 model zx, ignition timing was 10 degrees BTDC @ 700rpm For 80 and up zx, non turbo - 8 degrees BTDC +- 2 degrees @ 700rpm turbo - 20 degrees BTDC +- 3 degrees @ 700 rpm
Also done with distributor vacuum advance hose removed and plugged. NOTE: * BTDC = Before Top Dead Center * + - = Plus or minus
Hope thos helps; keep us updated.
Sounds like it's not boosting, and the engine is stopping you from doing damage - check the wastegate modulator (solenoid on the side of the engine in front of the turbo and under the air intake pipe). Also check that the breather hose has not worn through the wastegate actuator causing a vent to atmosphere. If these are fine, then you may have a vacuum problem - are the brakes ok?
Sounds like the dealer is shooting in the dark at your expense. If it was the O2 sensor, it would throw a code. Ofcourse, Fords drivability diagnostics was bad back then. I don't remember exactly how the ignition is set up on them. I would be looking at the trigger sensor for your ignition and ignition module.
Well, the 'T' in your model number is the answer; Turbo.
Non-turbo engines produce vacuum nearly all the way through their operating range since the engine functions as an air pump on the intake cycle to obtain the oxygen required for combustion.
The turbo, which is probably kicking in at around that 1800 revs, produces an overpressure so the engine can accommodate more fuel, be it diesel or gasoline.
Your engine and the turbocompressor, are doing exactly what they were designed for and your system (which I have personally used) not only doesn't do anything useful, is also causing a loss of your overpressure.