A friend is trying to change the tie rods on my van but can't get it to come off it will turn a little one way and then the other but won't come off it's like something is holding it in but he can't see what and how to get it lose.
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Re: need a diagram on how to change tie rods
OPen the box with the new parts in it some inner tie rods have a small dowel pin that goes threw the tie rod once it is on athoer time there is a peice of matal the you peen over when it is in stalled or a set screw holding it in. either way looking at the new parts will help you determin this im sure
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SOUND LIKE BAD WHEEL BEARING.SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS,MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND.GRAB WHEEL OR TIRE AT THE WITH ONE HAND TOP AND GRAB BOTTOM WHEEL TIRE WITH OTHER HAND,TRY TO SHAKE MOVE WHEEL IF WHEEL TIRE MOVES WHEN YOU SHAKE OR MOVE IT ANY.THE WHEEL BEARING MORE LIKELY BAD.IF WHEEL BEARING OKAY YOUR FRONT BRAKE ROTOR RUN OUT WORN OR WARPED.
Very simple. 1. Remove the front wheel 2. Take the proper size wrench and loosen the nut on the tie rod and rack and pinion 3. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut where the tie rod goes through the spindle(hub assembly) 4. Remove the castle nut and hit the area where the joint goes through until the shaft comes loose with a hammer 5. spin the outer tie rod off counting the number of spins 6. Reverse this procedure to install. If you need the inner tie rod(inner socket), let me know and I should be able to find a diagram and instructions.
I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.
The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.
Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!
The tie rod close to the tire. Your have to get a pitch fork and a hammer.
If you don't have a pitch fork,
Then hit the spindle to make that outter tie rod end drop down.
make sure the bolt is remove.
Little hammer is not going to work you will need like a 32oz .
Once you have it loosing you will have to go counter-clock wise turn to remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod, Remember count the turn very important to install it back. for you Toe Alignment.
The inner tie rod end will you will need a tool call tie rod end removal & install. It's a long tube with specail clip to removal & install. Maybe you can rent it. Or buy it habor freight tools or something.
if you buy the tie rod from auto zone they will also print you out a diagram of how to remove and install and what tools are needed to do the job and if you need too you can also rent the tools from them