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My driver side door lock makes a buzzing sound when the door lock engages.

I think it might be the actuator. If it is, I haven't been able to find the exact part number for it. I can only find actuator's for the sliding door and the lift gate.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: automatic door locks do not work

for that problem you will have to take it to the dealer the body control module stores codes that will aid in diagnosing the problem. one of the more common problems, a software issue. the body computer may need to be reflashed to the latest software level to correct.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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chryslertech
  • 115 Answers

SOURCE: automatic sliding doors and lift gate don't always work

You need to go to the dealer and have them check the codes. The factory has a reflash for the sliding door and liftgate modules for this type of problem the codes it might have for this is INCOMPLETE POWER OPEN - EXCESSIVE HALL EFFECT SIGNAL the flash is resetting obstacle detection values. But you need to go to the dealer, this can be only one possible cause. I have fixed many vans that has had these 2 codes. There is a bulletin from chyrsler for this.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: Power door lock inoperable on passenger sliding door only

Not sure if they are same on 2006 but there should be a couple of small rounded metal contacts, or similar, on door that meet with door post to complete the connection. When you find them, clean them off with a little fine steel wool or SOS pad, minus the soap, and see if that doesn't cure it.

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Power door lock on pass sliding door not working

I just had mine fixed at the dealer for the same problem. Their first response to me was "this happens ALL THE TIME". He said there is a little plastic pin in the door handle assembly and the pin has been known to slip out of the assembly. However, when they got inside, they said it was the actual door handle (inside) that was broken and had to replace the whole piece. So, the first step according to my dealer/servicer would be to check for the little plastic pin.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: driver's side power sliding door will not work.

I have the same problem and have tried removing the IOD fuse but now am thinking that this could be a problem with the actuator. Looks like the part is around $35. I will try this and let you know if it fixes the problem

Posted on May 02, 2010

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1 Answer

The back driver's side door buzzes when I lock and unlock it


The actuator is held in place by 3(?) or 4(?) screws on the latch side of the door. Make sure window is all the way UP! First, remove the door upholstery and the splash liner. Next, disconnect the two metal linkages running from the lock/latch assembly. You may now remove the screws holding the actuator in place. Remove electrical plugs. Transfer the linkages, plug in the electrical connector, slide the assembly back into the door, replace the screws, etc. After an hour or 2 you should have a repaired lock assembly and no more buzzing. Expect to pay around $65 including shipping for the new actuator. Good luck...

Oct 17, 2012 | 2005 Kia Sorento

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Drivers side door lock will not lock. Locks are power locks and button works.But door does not lock


the door lock actuator inside the door has gone bad.if the other doors lock and the driver's doesn't then the actuator has gotten too weak to move the lock/ latch.

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My front passenger side door lock make a buzzing noise everytime I lock it. All the doors lock but it makes that buzzing sound as it locks. What is the problem?


It's called a door lock actuator, and ours was on the driver side, buzzing each time the doors locked. Very annoying. We ordered it online, it was part #4717961AB from a Mopar company. Wasn't very easy to replace ourselves, but do-able if you have at least an hour and two people working on it. Cost us $60 plus shipping._418.jpg

Dec 28, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

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Automatic locks do not work except on drivers side door. whether using the remote or the automatic door lock button. when either is pressed it makes a horrible sound. what could this be?


When the door locks make a buzzing sound this means the lock actuator for that door is bad and will need to be replaced. If the locks do not work at each door and only from the drivers switch. Then either the lock-out on the drivers switch is on or the drivers switch is staying in lock-out. The other possibility could be that the lock actuator for the other door is bad.

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I have 97 honda accord 4 door. electric locks


Sounds like a sticking switch ( actuator ) in the door.
Pull off the door panel and , looking inside the door, follow the rod from the key to the actuator .
Clean the actuator and make sure it works freely before re assembly.

Mar 30, 2010 | 1997 Honda Accord

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Driver side doors will not lock. Loud,sick noise when button is pushed to lock or unlock.


loud buzzing noise but locks not working equals bad door lock actuator. remove door panel, locate and replace actuator.

Mar 23, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Driver side door won't lock electronically


very common problem is the door lock actuator. i would recommend replace that. a good idea also would be to remove the door panel and check all the rods that connect to the assembly and make sure one didnt pop off.

Oct 16, 2009 | 2003 Honda Civic

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Buzzing noise from driver's door lock


the actuator for that door is going bad

Aug 18, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Durango

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The automatic door lock on my 96 Honda Accord makes a loud buzzing sound when locking. Is there anyway to fix it myself? How do I take off the door panel to


My 1996 Honda had the same thing on the driver side door.

It was caused by a deteriorated rubber stop inside the door lock actuator module. The module is buried down in the lower outside corner of the door. Inside the module there is a track on which two electrical contacts slide along with the actuator, and a small rubber bumper stop. When this stop deteriorates, the contacts over travel and run off the track. Evidently this confuses the actuator controller into oscillation. The control module limits the time this occurs, so the buzz stops after a short while. There is somewhat of a spring return action to the mechanism, so the contacts return to the track, making things good again.

The dealer couldn't get just the rubber part, so $130+ for the whole module. My make-shift o-ring replacement only lasted a few months.

Definitely a chore to get the module out and back in.

HTH

Jul 11, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

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