Question about Cars & Trucks
Do I have a bad door lock actuator?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: door locks
Daughter had same problem on '05 T&C. Neighborhood mechanic searched Internet and found 80-90 others with same problem right around 40,000 miles. Free solution was to pull yellow 20A IOD fuse in right front corner of fuse box under hood, wait 10 seconds, then reinsert fuse. Should solve problem as long as you don't lock doors with FOB. You can unlock doors with FOB, but apparently locking with FOB causes the problem.
Permanent solution is to have dealer reprogram computer for around $50 which is what my daughter chose to do because of inconvenience of not being able to lock doors with FOB when getting baby/carseat out of vehicle.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
Could be the gas cap. Do you fill the tank with the engine running?
Otherwise, check the hoses near the Evap canister. I have 2003 T&C and had the small leak and large leak codes. I looked at the evap cansiter and the hose coming from the fuel tank vapor line had a huge crack in it, to the point it had fallen off the evap caniser. I trimmed the end of the hose and reconnected and voila, no codes.
The evap canister is on the driver's side of the van, underneath, slightly behind the drivers seat.
BTW, to clear the codes without an OBDII reader, remove the negative cable for 5-10 minutes (15 to be safe). The computer resets and clears the codes, except for one that it sets saying loss of power to the memory.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: Back door wont unlock
I have a 1999 Chrysler T&C 3.8 liter like yours and it sounds
like you are having the same the same problem I had.
Every time you hit the door unlock or lock button, it made a loud
buzz like you just missed a question on a game show. ;-)
It turned out the problem was the rear lift gate lock actuator. The part costs
about $40 from the dealer if I can recall correctly.
The repair involves: 1st removing the middle and rear seats to get
access from the inside to the rear gate
(obviously you will have to remove the seats from the side doors
since the rear gate won't open yet)
Remove the plastic inside rear gate panel and molding (phillips screws)
Once you remove the panel, you may see a way to manually
open the rear gate. As I recall, I think there was a access opening
covered from the inside with a black weather/insulation tape.
Carefully removing this out of the way gave access to a way to
manually open the gate, making the rest of the work easy.
Remove the electrical connector and the mounting bolts
to remove from the actuator. It is attached to the inside
rear gate with 2 or 3 bolts (10 mm?)
Remove the old one and replace the part, then put it all back
together, make sure you reconnect the electrical connector
Takes about an hour for the whole job (max)
Hope this helps,
Posted on May 08, 2009
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