Question about Cars & Trucks
An Idle motor on a fuel injected vehicle is virtually the same thing as the choke used to be for a carburated engine. It is basically a solenoid valve that adjusts the air fuel mixture to be rich while an engine is warming up to operating temperature. Once the engine is warm the idle motor is taken out of the mix and the computer begins to control the air fuel mixture. And no I don't believe it would have any effect on your truck shifting into or out of overdrive. Sounds more like torque converter clutch shutter.
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had a similar probelm but mine would get really bad at around 2300 RPM and it was just noticable at idle.. My fix was just below the exhaust manifold there is an elbow which is covered by a heat shield. When I observed the shield it wrapped around the bottom of the elbow and was spot welded to the exhaust pipe only at the 4 corners(so it was kinda in the shape of a U) because the rest of it was open, dirt and sand collected in here and caused the noise and vibration that I was hearing/feeling. After observing the area and talking to a GM mechanic I removed the shield completely. Theres nothing there that could burn or any heat sensitive parts for that matter, and it did not cover the top anyway so it wasn't to protect the paint. I hope this helps
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
You have a engine ignition miss, poss defective coil, get the trouble code out of memory to find out which cylinder is the problem, Kragen does the trouble code test for free.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
I have all of you guys problems for roughly a year and half. Last week i decided to solve the problems. 1st i did all the electrical check (spark plugs and coil packs) it was find. 2nd i did the fuel injections (it may be bad and stuck at open) it was good. 3rd i did the compression check and the #6 cylinder was bad, it only got 60psi instead of 180. Finally i removed the valve cover and found the problem, the INTAKE VALVE SPRING BROKE. The reason why the truck was still able to drive with all of you guys problems is that the valve spring broke at the bottom (1st loop from the bottom). Even though the spring broke it was still strong enough to create some compression pressure in term no engine light.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
SOURCE: random missfire
I have a 97 ram 1500 with the same thing 45-50 OD kicks in and it would start bucking unless you turned off the overdrive and for me the problem was powerloss due to the injecters, i pulled them off and 2 were 100% clogged. if you clean your injecters be sure to sprey from the bottom to blow out the dirt/rust out of the top to be sure you are not just jamming everything further into the injecters, every easy fix took me a lil over a hour 4 bolts hold the injecter rail in and each injecter has a clip that holds them in after you remove the click carefuly turn the injecter side to side while pulling on them to remove from the fuel rail,then use a pick to pull out the large amout of dirt/rust out of the top of the injecters then you will need to use something to get power to the injecter to open it up, i took 2 pieces of wire with flat ends on then pluged the wires into the injecter the hooked the other side of the wire to the battery, if you do not hear a click sound when u hook to the battery then the injecter is bad, after you hear the click use a cleanning spay and spray from the bottom of the injecter so that the spray comes out the top, after all injecters are clean put them back on the motor, just to be sure all the rubber bushing are on the injecters there are 2 on each injecter 1top 1 bottom, i used a light amount of lube on the rubber seals to put them back in.took it for a test drive and had twice the power and the bucking had stopped.
I hope this helps
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
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Jun 03, 2018 | Nissan Cars & Trucks
Here are the most common causes of idle surge, rough idle esp when cold and stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
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