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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
on most newer cars the fuse block is under rhe hood on one of the fenders. google autorepair for a DIY website autzone has a realy good one that has great info on the electricalsystem. but it is not the fuse it's a little thin called a flasher relay that seems to be your problem. the flasher relay on a saturn is available at most autoparts stores and some might help you locate it and put it in for free.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
One or more of:
1. Your coolant is low
2. Your thermostat doesn't close and needs to be replaced
3. The valve from the cooling system to the heater core is stuck
4. Your heater core is clogged
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 sl1 saturn ODB Codes
Check for intake manifold leaks and carbon in EGR pipe and EGR.
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
I have a 99 SC, and I found that the backlight itself blew out. In some S Series, that backlight is an LED, which technically have a limitless life. It's more likely that the bulb is a standard incandescent. It can be replaced, and I did so myself for about $3.
All bolts were metric.
All steps below work for the SC, but they might be a little different for yours.
The steps include:
1) Remove screws from the underside of the steering wheel that hold the plastic cover on. Pull it apart as best as you can; it might not entirely come apart.
2) Remove all screws holding the lower panel above the pedals, and remove the panel - be careful, the hood release is mounted in this panel. Also, the electronic diagnostic port screws are also securing this panel.(it is on the SC).
3) Remove the two decorative plastic caps from the center of the dash towards the windshield. Remove the two screws beneath.
4) Remove the top dash cover bezel. You may need a flathead screwdriver to pry the clips loose. Be careful so that you do not damage the bezel.
5) The steering wheel may be in the way of the proper removal of the instrument cluster, and you will need to drop it to the floor. It can be dropped by removing two bolts that hold the column just below the cluster from the bottom. They are larger bolts, but are difficult to see behind some wiring. You may have to disconnect an electrical cable in that vicinity in order to remove the bolts. Once the bolts are out, the wheel easily drops to the floor.
6) Remove the bezel that sits in front of the instrument cluster by prying out the two small plastic retainers in the top.
7) On the back of the instrument cluster, identify the electrical connectors. You will see a single orange tab sticking out of each connector. Remove the tab. Place it in a safe place. Then remove the electrical connectors by pressing carefully on the tabs on the side to release the latch. This takes some patience and can be difficult.
8) Remove the two bolts that hold the instrument cluster in on the lower left and right of the cluster. Then, remove the two bolts in the back of the cluster towards the windshield.
9) The cluster should now easily come out of the dash. Turn the cluster over, and you should see an array of gray knobs, behind each of which is a bulb. All those bulbs are probably fine (unless you've noted other lighting anomalies in your cluster). The knob you must locate is black in color, and is directly behind the odometer. It turns about 1/5th of a rotation counter clockwise, and easily pops out.
10) Take this to the auto store. You can easily pop the light out of the black knob, and replace it with a matching bulb from the lighting department at the auto store. They are very cheap.
11) Reassembly is reverse of assembly. Ensure you tighten the steering wheel bolts tightly, otherwise they will come loose and rattle, potentially the steering wheel unexpectedly on your lap. Regarding other bolts, be careful of over tightening because this can easily cause the bolts to strip their threads.
As a general rule, don't pull too hard on anything. If it's not coming loose, you probably missed a bolt! In some cases, you may have to remove the left end cap where your left driver's vent is. This can be tricky, even though only two bolts hold it in place.
Give yourself plenty of time, and you'll be just fine. My total repair was about two hours.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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