Question about 1998 Toyota Avalon
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the thermostat is on the engine end of the lower rad hose the water pump is under the timing belt cover it is usually changed with the belt
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
1. Look up along the lower radiator hose. It will plug into a metal
tube on the engine side. Follow the metal tube. It goes to a housing.
The housing is kind of buried in the driver's side of the engine. There
are 2 smaller coolant tubes plugged in above it. You do not need to
touch those, although it looks at first glance like you do.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at the metal tube.
3. Disconnect fan switches 1 and 2. These are on elecrtical harnesses going to this housing.
4. Disconnect a sensor on the front of the engine, just above the lower hose. I believe this is the knock sensor, but I'm not sure.
5. Now for the fun part. There are 3 bolts holding this housing on. You can see one at the top. There are 2 others underneath it, such that the bolts form a triangle pattern. You will have to get the bottom 2 out by feel (blind). They are 10mm.
6. Also, if you look to the front of the housing, you will note another 10mm bolt on the front holding down a black plastic leg. This is a wiring harness duct. Remove that bolt. Trace back along the duct. There is one more bolt on the driver's side retaining the duct. There is also one on the back of the engine at the firewall / driver's side. Remove these 2 as well.
7. There is a 12mm bolt holding the metal tube from that housing to the driver's side. Remove that bolt.
8. Gently pry the plastic wiring duct toward driver's side, and back toward firewall. You have just enough to get it off of the stud on the thermostat housing.
9. Now you can pull the housing. It will not come all the way out. It will come loose enough to give you just enough clearance to remove the thermostat (barely). Once you remove the thermostat, you have to pass it downward and toward the firewall to fumble it out.
By the way, you will notice that the metal tube is kind of wiggly in the thermostat housiung. This is normal.
10. Pass the new thermostat in the same way you got the old one out. Make sure when you plug it in that it has an air bleed poppet, and that this poppet is facing up.
11. Reassemble by reversing removal. Getting the nuts / bolts back in blind is... fun...
I don't know the torque spec. You can get a torqure wrench in there barely if you get creative with extensions, knuckles, etc. I wouldn't go abouve 8-10 ft-lb.
Posted on May 01, 2009
Just replaced one. It is on the driver's side of the engine. Follow the lower hose up. It is clamped to the inlet tube which is held in the thermostat housing by an O-Ring. There are three nuts holding the housing to the engine block. I managed to get mine off without the recommended removal of the aircleaner
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 11, 2015 | 2008 Toyota Avalon
Aug 25, 2011 | 2000 Toyota Avalon
May 07, 2011 | Toyota Avalon Cars & Trucks
Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Toyota Avalon
Jul 05, 2010 | 1997 Toyota Avalon
Jan 06, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Avalon
Oct 05, 2009 | 2002 Toyota Avalon
Jun 12, 2009 | 2003 Toyota Avalon
Jan 03, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Avalon
Dec 31, 2008 | 2008 Toyota Avalon
1,724 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: