Re: adjusting emergency brakes on 2006 ford freestyle sel...
I just did mine today, and did not have this problem. I screwed the caliper back in (right side CCW, left side CW) using the autozone loaner tool. No problem once I figured out they were opposite. Did not touch the e-brake at all. They self adjusted as designed and everything works. You need to un-do the adjustment you made if you were able to reassemble.
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read the workshop manual as you have not determined the make and model of the vehicle
most rear disc brakes have a screw adjustment that you have to move to get the hand brake to come into contact with the piston to get the hand brake to activate the pads
The rear callipers contain the hand brake mechanism, they need to be wound back to install the new pads, have a look in your local car part suppliers/accessory shop, the correct tool is about £10 or so. You can wind it back with a screw driver and a "G" clamp, they need to be wound clockwise when you look at the piston through the calliper frame, use a large screwdriver in the notches in the piston to turn it, sometimes the screwdriver needs to be sideways, this will be fiddly as you can usually onlt turn 1/4 of a turn at a time, squeeze the piston back with the clamp after a turn or so and repeat untill the piston is back enough to allow the pads in.
Do you mean back brake pads or the back brake callipers?
To change pads you need to use a rear brake pads changing tool to screw in the calliper piston or if you are experienced enough you could screw in the calliper with a two mm thick piece of metal sheeting that fits into the grove of the piston.
If you need to replace the whole calliper remove the hand brake cable first and clamp the flexible brake hose remove brake hose, remove the callier with cylinder and then remove the calliper holder. fit new holder pads and locks and the calliper with the piston and the brake hose and the hand brake cable. Bleed the brakes. Mike
You can compress the piston with a large C clamp. Screw type pistons are generally at the rear, when caliper is also used as emergency brake. I generally use the inner brake pad to protect the piston from damage while compressing it. If it does not retract it may be frozen or the rubber line going to it has internally failed. After completing change, pump brake a few times to re-set piston position so you have brakes.
Unlike the front pads where you only have to push the caliper piston in to replace the pads,the rear caliper pistons have to be turned clockwise to screw them back in.Hint: only go as far as nessesary to get the pads to clear the rotor as this is also the adjustment for the emergency brake.Good luck, ChevRev
If you are just removing and replacing the pads, you will need, i believe a 13mm wrench, a screw driver (flat head) and a "turn in caliper compression tool" because your rear calipers also act as your emergency brake when it's engaged. You will see 2 divits across from eachother on your caliper piston. Once you have the tool inplace and the slots lined up with the tool, turn clockwise and turn the caliper piston in. If it will not turn, then it's defective and will need to be replaced before you can install the new pads. If you need a turn in caliper tool, you can rent one at any autozone or advance auto, pay for it up front and get a complete refund when you are done and bring it back.
You shouldn't need to remove the calipers altogether just to replace the pads. You have remove the split pins or retaining springs on the old pads, then prize back the caliper pistons enough to remove them. Then push the pistons back some more enough to get the new pads in. Then reassemble and test.
You can't remove the rotors because the emergency brake is tight on the
inside of the rotors. Make sure it's not engaged when you are working
on the rear brakes. Block the front tires for saftey. Then you have to
remove the rear calipers from the mounting brackets, there are two
bolts that hold the calipers on. Make sure you hang the calipers
securily with some wire so you don't damage the rubber brake line hose.
Then you need to adjust the emergency parking brake shoes in order to
remove the rotors. Theres a rubber plug on the backside of the rear
hubs, once you look at the back of the hub you'll see the plug. It's on
the top. Once you take out the plug, you need to use a screw driver to
turn the star spindel. You need to turn the star spindel
counter-clockwise in order to give yourself enough clearance to remove
the rotors. The beauty of this design is that ford incorporated a drum
and caliper system together, but it's difficult to take off the rotors
if the emergency brake shoes are to tight. The inside of the rotors
acts as the drums for the emergency brake system. I've done this and
it's not that hard, but, I did have to replace the emergency brake
shoes because they were worn out and the shoes fell off the metal
backing plates when I finally got the rotors to come off. They only
glued these shoes onto the backing plates, they don't rivet them so
take your time getting the rotors off or you can damage the emergency
brake shoes, but if you do they are cheap at napa. My service guide
says to install the new rotors, use a couple of lug nuts to hold it on,
then adjust the star spindal for the emergency brake all the way
clockwise until you can't turn it anymore, then you must back it off 8
clicks counter-clockwise. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged
when you are doing this, the 8 clicks backwards compensates for when
you do engage the parking brake because the shoes expands outwards.
This adjustment sets the emergency brakes so they work properly. Once
the emergency brake is properly set you can't remove the rear rotors,
which is what your initial problem is. Then install the rubber plug
back in the hole, put on the new pads and calipers and you're good to