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How to change water pump

Do i pull off crank pully i can see 2 bolts do i take off timeing cover also

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Agree with Hank. we need more info

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

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  • 13 Answers

Hard to answer with out the car details

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replacing water pump on mitsibishy

i think its left hand mate

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

StormStrikes
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SOURCE: on 98 intrigue water pump removal how do i clear the ps pully

Im not sure what engine you have since this information was not provided. But the Power Steering Pump pulley usually has some 'holes' on the pulley in which you can get a wrench through to loosen and remove the bolt.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.2 Water Pump.Can't remove pully.

USUALLY I LOOSEN ALL OF THE BOLTS BEFORE I TAKE THE BELT OFF TO HELP KEEP THE PULLEY FROM TURNING... USE A LONG SCREWDRIVER OR PRYBAR .. PUT IT BETWEEN THE TWO OTHER BOLTS AND LOOSEN THE 3RD. CONTINUE TILL ALL ARE LOOSE.. IF YOU HAVE ALREADY REMOVED 2 OF 3 BOLTS THEN RE INSTALL THE OTHER 2 A FEW THREADS SO YOU CAN PUT THE SCREWDRIVER IN BETWEEN THEM TO STOP THE PULLEY FROM TURNING.

Posted on May 14, 2009

motor1258
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SOURCE: tryin to remove water pump in 3.4 liter 99 alero

This may help.
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Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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SOURCE: doing a water pump on a 01 chevy impala wit a 3.8.

If you can't reposition the P/S pully to line up the hole and bolt you will need to remove the power steering pump to get to that last bolt. Good luck.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I get the pullies off the crank on a 94 Toyota truck? The engine is getting water in the oil and a mechanic said the water may be coming into the oil inside the timing cover. He said the timing...


Do you have the crank pulley bolt loose? To loosen it, pull the starter and wedge something against the ring gear teeth on the flywheel-I often use a piece of wood in there, although a large screwdriver or prybar would also work. Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt (use a large breaker bar) and loosen it while holding the flywheel stationary. If the pulley wont move off the crank with some tapping on it to move it, then you will have to use a puller to get the pulley off the crank. Use a harmonic balancer pulley puller, or a 2 or 3 armed puller, if the harmonic balancer puller wont work.

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How to fix the trailblazer 2004 4.2l engine timing chain


Its the same as a chevy v8 pull radeator fan water pump lower crank pully loosen oil pan bolts align timing marks crank mark at 12 oclock cam cshaft mark at 6 oclock replace with new gears and chain timing cover gasket crank seal and water pump gaskets

Jun 26, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

View of mark for timing belt.


hi from uk the cambelt/timing belt comes as a kit ie timing belt and tensioner cost £50 here in uk ? it is not too difficult diy job approx 2hours the engine must 1st be set to TDC number 1 firing then at this setting the cam cog mark is a hole drilling in the web of cog and should line up at 12 oclock upwards and using a mirror look thro drill hole and you will see a vertical notch/groove behind on font engineface this is correct mark the crank cog mark lines up with aother mark on engine front face at approx 12 30 pm oclock ? if now set you slacken tensioner bolts and push t/pully away to left from belt ? then remove belt next remove complete tensioner assy after undoing bolts then fit new tensioner push t/pully to left from belt run and lock bolt/s recheck t/marks then fit new belt from c/shaft in anticlockwise rotation when fitted release tensioner bolt and allow to tension belt push t/pully onto belt and lock up tensioner bolts20=27 Nm rotate engine manually for four turns then recheck marks ? should still aligne then re assemble torque crank bolt to =140-150 Nm A LITTLE HINT ? b4 you remove the water pump belt ? slacken thefour 10 mm headed bolts (spanner size) that secure w/pump pully to pump it will be easier to halt rotation of pully if you holt belt tight by hand this pully has to come off to remove c/belt covers same for power steer belt which is also driven from the w/pump pully the power steer pump slide adjuster has a 12 mm bolt you slacken and best done with open end spanner ? after slackening the pump mounting bolts/nuts underneath pump hope you can follow this info/tips wish you good luck from uk

Apr 09, 2010 | 2000 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

WHERE IS THE WATER PUMP LOCATED...2003 ELANTRA


hi from uk fortunately the water pump on your car is not driven by cambelt ! the pump is driven by serp belt the pumps location is = if you look at front of engine view from front wing as you look down front you will see a large pully on left of cambelt covers and this is the water pump access to pump is best by supporting car and removing wheel and then the under wing cover that is secured by screws some advice for you if you intend renewing pump the pump pully is secured by 4 bolts use a 10 mm cranked ring spanner or socket loosen these bolts before you remove the drivebelt as belt holds pully and helps to prevent pully turning as you try to loosen these bolts hope this helps ?

Jan 26, 2010 | Hyundai Motor 2003 Elantra

1 Answer

Need to change timming belt 1997 geo tracker


TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

Nov 11, 2009 | 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door

1 Answer

Having trouble getting water pump out of 94 lantra 1.8 lt


1. Remove the alternator & power steering pump drive belts.
2. Remove four (4) 10mm bolts holding the water pump pullys & remove the pullys.
3. Drain the Radiator (save coolant if intend to reuse).
4. Loosen & remove AC compressor belt.
5. Remove crankshaft pully (22mm bolt).
6. Remove lower timing belt cover (10 mm bolts) to access water pump bolts.
7. Remove the water pump (12mm bolts)
(1) Remove the 2 bolts, then remove the alternator brace (A). (2) Remove the water pump (B) and gasket.
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Mar 21, 2009 | 2004 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

How do I change the water pump on a '91 capri?


its pretty easy to do so all you have to do is remove both drive belts then unbolt the four bolts on the bottom pully. the double will then come off. remove the top and bottom timing covers in that order you will have to remove the water pump pully first. then mark your timing belt to ensure you get it back in time properly when reassembling. then loosen the timing belt tensenor pull timing belt off and let hang. then remove the water pump bolt then water pump. Install in reverse order. Make sure you clean the mating surface for the water pump.

Mar 16, 2009 | 1991 Mercury Capri

2 Answers

The water pump


ok this is fun lol.jack the car up and put it on a jack stand,then you will have to pull the drivers side tire off.now you need to put a jack under the motor and unbolt the driver side motor mount. lower the motor down it will only go so far.now for the fun part.you got pull the crank pully off there is one bolt in the center of the pully.once you get that off pull the timing cover off top and bottom. there will be 2 belts one is the timing and one is for the water and oil pump. the water pump it the one closest to the back of the motor. it would be best if you replace the timing belt since your already in there.make sure you get ALL the old gasket off the block.you dont want to have to do it twice.oh yeah loosen the tensioner pully to pull off the timing belt it right above the crank one bolt in the center also.if you didnt move anything you should be able to put the new timing belt back on with now problems if you did move something then you got to put it back in time to do that make sure the #1 cylinder is top dead center of the compression strok then turn the cam gear till where its says up on the spoke is pointing up.after that put everything back together and you should be good to go. hope this helps if you have anymore questions just let me know.have fun lol

Jan 15, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Need to set timing on a 88 subaru 1.8 liter


The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

Jul 21, 2008 | 1984 Subaru Gl

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