Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a 1974 chevy k10 it has a 350 5.7 and it's automatic. also the carb on it is a quadrajet but it might be for a 1984 pickup (17084226)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Depending on your carb, distributor and transmission, you have from zero to two vacuum hoses.
If you have an Autostick transmission, there's a vacuum hose running from a port in the intake manifold to the control valve on the left side wall of the engine bay. (Hint: if you've got a car that came with Autostick and that someone's converted to manual transmission, the bracket for the control valve is the perfect place for your coil.) Most people don't have this transmission even if their car came with it--it's only a three-speed and it's hard to find parts for it, so most of those cars have been converted to manual transmission.
The other hose you might have is for your distributor. The port is on the left side of the carb, and a hose runs between it and the metal vacuum advance can on the side of the distributor. If you have a 009 distributor or an aftermarket distributor like an MSD you don't have the vacuum advance can; if you have an aftermarket carb like a Weber you don't have the port. Therefore...you probably don't have any vacuum lines on your engine.
if only one vacuum line then? the vacuum line goes from the vacuum advance on the side of the dizzy, to the carburettor, just around the throttle linkage if i recall. hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
That engine is a good solid workhorse that isn't difficult to set up. First, set the ignition timing to 8degrees btc (advanced) they like it there. Set with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Next, while it's running, look down into the carb and make sure you dont see any fuel dripping into the venturis. If it is, you need to lower the float level a bit. Put a vacuum gauge on ti attached to any mainfold port. Then adjust the idle screws in the carb base till you have the highest possible vacuum reading. Work with one screw, then the other, then go back to the first one, then the second to get it fine tuned. If the carb has an electric throttle solenoid, do this with the solenoid disconnected and the idle speed turned down at the linkage to the lowest point that it will continue to run. Note: if the vacuum gauge bounces or reads substantially lower than 18 inches, you may have an internal engine problem...bounce is valves, very low may be timing chain. Make sure that you are getting 12v to the coil and that the cap, rotor and wires are in good condition and that the fly-weights under the rotor are free and not rusted in place. When finished, re-connect the solenoid and the advance hose and bring engine idle up to about 800-825rpm using idle screw on linkage If solenoid is always on, set linkage screw at 800, solenoid a bit higher
I suggest that before you begin any testing, you do a compression test. The numbers are not as important as that ther are close to each other...you should not have one thats at 80 and the remainder at 100 for example. Usually you should have at least 150 in each cyl. Look carefully at the spark plugs...they should be tan on the electrode porcelan, should have no residue of any kind and should be properly gapped. I'm sure I forgot something but doing what I said should make it run far better. Make sure firing order is correct...18436572, bost common to cross are 5 and 7. Any questions, just ask.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
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