Yeah. The piece had a line to it. I didn't want to remove it, but there was no way to drop the starter without doing this. It had two bolts holding it in, and held in some kind of gasket. It also had some sort of tube inside. I could probably take a good picture of it. Would you be able to look at a picture if I sent it to your e-mail?
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Re: No clutch after changing starter.
Ahh well its the clutch slave clynder ok well remove the two bolts again holding it in after you get it out there should be a metal rod that goes into the tranny the rod should have around end on it if i remember right sorry its been awhile since i have done 1 but they are all the same for the most part make sure when you put it back into the tranny that the rod goes into the clutch fork look in the hole if you can and you will see the fork/arm when you bolt it back in if its in right you will have to push on the slve clynder to get it to mate up with the tranny. let me kow if this works and get back to me. I have also down loaded the live chat tool on here if that works bette rfor you good luck.
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The 1st step is to loosen your bell housing bolts and drop your starter.
The remove your drive shafts the front drive shaft will slide out from
the front and then pull it back to the rear. Then you must take your
shifter lose from the Trans not the diff. then drop your cross member.
Do not take the transfer case lose from the trans. If you can help it.
You will then remove the trans. And unbolt the pressure plate. And
everything should come off, make sure when you reinstall the clutch
plate that you make sure the side that said to fly wheel is against the
fly wheel. Make sure you tighten the pressure plate and clutch plate up
with you line up tool all the way in and don't be afraid to tighten
down on it. Because it isn't easy getting the Trans back up in there.
The reassemble in the same order.
Basically, you remove the hood, remove AC,remove Rad, remove Starter, setup a engine hoist and remove all bolts that holds tranny/motor.
Support Tranny and with the hoist having the weight of the motor slowly separate motor and tranny.
Once motor is free from tranny,there is a cage at the back of motor, remove and replace with new. 3 pieces Clutch,ClutchPlate, and the throw-out-bearing.
The reason for replacing is you do not want to disassemble again for not replacing an item.
Put it all back together
There;s no two way's about it you'll have to remove transmission, put car up on jack stand's, then remove driver shaft, remove linkage or stick shift and all elec. connection, remove line going to slave cylinder( you'll need a line disconnect tool napa has it part # 775-9086), remove starter assembly, remove all bolts around trans bell housing, pull trans away from engine, slave cylinder slide on input shaft of trans, remove slave 10mm bolt's and replace slave. after all reassemble bleed clutch system
this is for rear wheel drive only front wheel drives require removing axle shat and dropping tie rod end and lower ball joint to get tranny out. If you start this I will give tork setting when I know what you have as it is a lot of work to type this out.
First disconnect the battery, inside the cab pull shifter boot off and remove snap ring to remove shifter, next get a block to go under engine remove drive line bolts and be sure E-brake is set and block the wheels, next put bolts from driveline into the read differential in order so you will be able to find them next disconnect the two starter bolts from the starter and tie starter up as not to allow the starter weight to hang on the wires. Remove two bolts holding slave cylinder on let hang off the side do not lose the shaft out of slave. Next remove the transmission mount bolt out next pull four bolts out of transmission cross member, next remove 5 bolts out of bell housing now get a baggie and a couple of rubber bands and pull drive shaft slide baggie over the transmission tail shaft and put on rubber band on bag to keep from losing fluid move drive shaft out of the way. Next disconnect the Speedo cable and wiring harness the reverse switch is at the top so will have to drop the tranny down to keep from breaking wire. Once you have a gap between the transmission and engine put block under back of engine slide the transmission out let the front drop down then lift up on rear of transmission and slide the cross member out of the way. Next slide tranny out of the way next remove the 6 bolts on the clutch assembly turning each bolt 1 and a ½ turns each till clutch is loose remove the clutch pressure plate and the throw out bearing, remove flywheel take to machine shop and have surfaced, replace the clutch plate pressure plate and the throw out bearing reinstall in reverse if you see any oil leaks replace seals, also replace rear transmission seal now if you don’t it will leak next after it is back together be sure you put new fluid in the transmission and bleed the slave cylinder.
Absolutly, Your idle control valve at the end of your fuel rail has a vacuum line and its sensitive to pressure changes. One way to double check that would be to hook everything up normally and pull that vacuum line off your idle control valve. Are the symptoms the same?
a should be two bolts holding the starter, gen, chevy are vetical, frome bottom,before that is attemped, please remove positive cable from battery, then remove wires/cable from solenoid on starter,if this not accessable, you can drop starter, then remove leads, pls do not let starter hang by the leads if possible, thnku, good luck.
Probably a throw-out bearing, also called a clutch release bearing. It will eventually have to be replaced, and sooner better than later. If it freezes up completely, you can do some damage to the clutch assembly or release arm.