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Think about how the vehicle is acting. Starts fine when cold, hard to start when warm. In these computer operated systems, the computer runs everything. Starts fine when cold: the computer has the engine in cold start mode putting more fuel in till it warms up. Temperature sending unit in the manifold sends a message to the computer telling it to stop the cold start mode and it stops dumping excess fuel into the cylinders and it runs fine. IF, mind you, IF the temperature sending unit is faulty, it's not telling the computer to stop the cold start mode and is flooding the engine with fuel cause it's sill in cold start mode. This is my take away on your situation and the temp sending unit is something to check to be sure it's functional. Check it out. I hope this WAS the answer to your problem my friend. It's typical. Luck to'ya Bro.
Security system needs to identify proper key for operation. Original key most likely had a chip in it for security identification. Aftermarket cut key will not be recognized by security module. You can usually get a proper key from the dealership by giving the VIN# and they can cut the proper key linked to the vehicle
From the description, you could have a few different problems. First thing to check would be to make sure that the car is getting spark. The easiest way to check is to pull a spark plug wire from the coil or distributor and hold it close enough for a spark to jump between the post and the wire. wear rubber gloves so you don't get shocked. have someone turn the key while you hold the wire and look for the spark to jump. If you have spark, you may have a fuel issue. When you turn the key forward you should be able to hear a hum by the fuel tank ( rear or middle of the vehicle) someone else will have to turn the key once again. Even if you hear the hum it could still be a fuel issue. The list of problems that it could be is long so start with that and after you determine if the engine is getting spark the list narrows dramatically. If you have an OBD2 engine code scanner that would help also. let me know what the results are and I can advise further.
Does it seem like when the engine is cold it runs ok, then when it reaches operating temp. it starts acting up? (poor acceleration, stalling) When I had that problem w/ my 93 K1500, it ended up being my oxygen sensor. (causing too rich of a mixture in the throttle body)
Hope this helps, Good luck
Jenifer, it sounds like the oil lines from the oil pump are clogged or the pump itself is defective. Please do not run the engine until you get it checked out. If the oil pump in the bottom pan is not pushing oil to the top of the engine the valves and cams are not being lubricated and will burn up...Bue, Bye engine!
camshaft sensor need repalcing, simple fix is, have a bottle water with u, when engine cut out pour slowly some water on top of engine where the sensor is located, it cool down fast then u can start again and continue drive until it too hot again,
sensor is located on top of engine close to firewall in the middle.
Make sure your battery is secured by a good battery hold-down system...if the battery shifts in the tray and the positive terminal touches the fender, the dead short will immediately kill the vehicle.
Also, take the alternator to a parts store and have it tested if your battery is held down firmly. The whining noise can be bad alternator bearings. On a vehicle of this vintage, this is a possibility for the noise. It is furthermore possible that the alternator has died electrically, and during a lengthy drive, the vehicle's own electrical consumption will drain the battery and the vehicle will die en route.
When you jump it off, it gets enough charge from the donor vehicle to drive, but if the alternator is dead, it can't keep the vehicle supplied with enough energy to operate.
i suggest you get the code out of the vehicles diagnostic system it could shed some light on why vehicle cuts out.
does vehicle start straight away?
things like a relay, crank sensor, wiring loom or connector problem or more expensive things like engine ECU could be at fault.
i have seen all these but the most common for V6 engines is the engine harness wiring loom breaking and bad earth crimp on LH head to guard area.