I just replaced compressor orifice tube and accumulaor and cleaned system due to compressor lock up. charged system as per a/c label under hood and compressor won't run. Is there a fuse somewhere that could be blown or a bad pressure switch
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First thing is to use a recovery station to remove the Freon. Then you open the system connections at the receiver dryer and look into the outbound connection for the orifice tub. You might need to use a pick or needle nose pliers to remove it. When it is out, you need to remove the compressor from the circuit and flush the whole system with a recommended solvent. Drain the oil from the compressor by sitting it so that the connections allow it to drain. Catch the fluid from the flushing and the compressor to check for debris. If you see any you can re-flush the system again. If you see rust you have to replace everything. When you are done, put the orifice tube back, put in a NEW receiver dryer. Connect the compressor back to one side, put new oil back in the system according to the specs. connect the other side, pump the system down and wait for 4 hours with the vacuum pump running. Then charge the system. Now you know why it is so expensive.
Rather then guessing an just replacing parts , have a qualified repair shop hook up A/C manifold gauges an check the system . Can tell you what's wrong in just min.
(it is only blowing slightly cool air. I suspect it is the orifice/expansion tube and want to know if I can change it out myself or reair it.)
Don't suspect , that's guessing . test don't guess . Are the A/C pipes going in through the fire wall cold ,have ice on them when A/C is on ?
I hope as well that the compressor is not bad just for reasons you'r most likely aware of, the COST. The main thing you might want to do is check to see if power is running to the compressor directly with a multimeter. If there is power then most likely you will need to replace the compressor. The main thing that may happen like you mentioned above is that the compressor is self locked up. One way you can tell is if is you serpentine belt will turn the pulley when you start the engine. Take a look at the pulley when the engine is on. If you hear an unusual noise or see smoke then it will most likely lock up soon. When that does happen is will most likely throw you'r belt of the pulley after it locks up. The reason for the compressor being so expensive to repair is for a couple reasons. The system is pressurized and requires special tools when removing it to store the freon. Also when you replace the compressor it is always wise to replace the orifice tube, accumulator and hoses as well just to lower the risk of it going out again.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE -Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging. -Remove the air cleaner assembly. -Remove the vacuum brake booster. -Remove the condenser tube. -Use J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion orifice tube. IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the porous plastic inlet filter of the expansion orifice tube. -Inspect the expansion orifice tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated: -Broken plastic frame (1); replace the tube. Inlet filter (3) damaged or plugged with fine gritty material; replace the tube. Inlet filter (3) coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; remove the coating with low pressure shop air ONLY and reuse if the filter is cleaned satisfactorily. Do NOT reuse the O-ring seals (2).
IMPORTANT: Lubricate the new O-ring seals (2) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. If you reuse the orifice tube, install new O-ring seals (2). Carefully grasp the edge of the expansion orifice tube (1) without touching the inlet filter (3) and insert the expansion tube into the condenser tube until fully seated. -Install the condenser tube. -Install the vacuum brake booster. -Install the air cleaner assembly. -Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging. -Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A.
This will apply to most automotive A/C systems. You have to remove the accumulator, the compressor and the orifice tube (expansion valve). Flush ALL the lines with an A/C flushing agent. Install the correct amount of refrigerant oil into each A/C component per the manufacturers specifications. You have to install a new accumulator, orifice tube and compressor and necessay "O" rings and seals. Evacuate the system using a vacuum pump. Check for any LEAKS. Recharge the A/C system with the correct amount of freon per the manufacturers specifications.
if old compressor fail your air condition has to be discharge at dealership or a garage that does ac repair.then the ac lines has to be flushed out before putting on new one. because old one when it fails clutch lock up or compressor fail.small metal particles get in line.stop up orifice tube.you will have to replace orifice tube the accumalator .you will need vacuum pump to pump down air conditioner .to get moisture out of system.you will need a manifold gauge set for air conditioner.ac tools are expensive.it would be cheaper to buy compressor - accumulator - orifice tube. take it to a good air conditioner mechanics.let him put parts on and pump down system.then charge it up.because buying tools to get ac going .is going to cost $475.00 thats the vacuum pump price.you can buy a cheaper vacuum pump that works from air from a regular air compressor you pump tires up with.manifold gauge set causes from $100.00 up to $300.00 for a good set.another thing you have to be familiar with working on air conditioners you put too much R-134 in system you will damage compressor or get seriously hurt.
You were not clear, but I assume the compressor runs OK. If not, troubleshoot the electrical to the compressor. Did you replace the orifice tube while it was discharged for service? If not, then check the pressures. If low side pressure is high the tube might be plugged, especially if you truly had a bad compressor. In a properly working system the line should be cold on the evaporator side of the orifice tube when properly charged. If compressor runs, system properly charged and that line is warm then suspect a plugged tube.
A/C Evaporator Core Orifice
The A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990) should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor (19703) is replaced for lack of performance (internal damage).
The A/C evaporator core orifice, located in the condenser to evaporator tube (19835), cannot be serviced in detail as a component of the line. If replacement is necessary, follow the procedure outlined for Liquid Line Removal and Installation.
An orifice tube replacement service kit may be used as an optional service procedure.
Refer to Section 12-00 for information regarding the use of an A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Replacement Kit E5VY-19D695-A.
A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Replacement Kit Installation
Discharge A/C refrigerant system. Refer to System Discharging and Recovery as outlined.
Remove condenser to evaporator tube (19835) from vehicle.
Locate A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990) by three indentations or a circular recess in metal portion of the condenser to evaporator tube.
A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Location
Note angular position of ends of condenser to evaporator tube so that it can be reassembled in correct position.
Cut a 63.5 mm (2.5 inch) section from condenser to evaporator tube at A/C evaporator core orifice location. Do not cut closer than 25.4 mm (1 inch) from start of a bend in tube.
A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Section Removed From the Liquid Line
Remove contaminants from the two pieces of the condenser to evaporator tube.
NOTE: The inlet half of the condenser to evaporator tube will be positioned against the A/C evaporator core orifice tabs when correctly assembled.
Lubricate fitting with clean refrigerant oil and assemble orifice tube kit (with A/C evaporator core orifice installed) to condenser to evaporator tube. Make sure flow direction arrow is pointing toward evaporator end of the condenser to evaporator tube, and taper of each compressor ring is toward compression nut.