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The radiator would be aged or weak. Never drive the car without original anti freeze coolant. Check the radiator, radiator cap for both functions (compression and vacuum springs from under the radiator cap). Carefully examine the radiator and heater hoses and their clamps. Also carefully examine the cylinder block water lids on both sides for any corrosion. Finally pressure test the coolant system.
I think it is caused by the water pump pushing water round the system. As long as there is no loss then all should be fine. I had a problem once with a leakie radiator cap only under pressure when driving. Fixed with a new radiator cap
u need to find top dead center on number one cylinder. to do this remove rocker cover and watch rockers move through there cycle. inlet valve opens on a downward stroke sucking in fuel, then closes the next stroke up is compression stroke and fires at top dead center then fires cylinder down. the exhaust opens on the up stroke pushing exhaust out. The top dead centre you need is after it has compressed the air fuel mixture.
then issert distributor with points clossed on No one cap and work through the firing order of the engine placing the leads arround in that order.
Hard to explain but hope its a help
If you look closely at the coupling, you will see two plastic tabs there. Push in on them and it should disengage. Be careful not to break them as the plastic end is not replaceable without shop work. Clean out the groove where the fitting goes so it locks in when putting the radiator back in.
could be a head gasket (coolant going into exhaust or into oil) pull oil dipstick does it look light brown like the color of a chcolale milkshake if yes u have bad head gasket does exhaust blow white smoke? if yes bad headgasket ? pull radiitor cap off let van run for while does water come out of raditor at a fast rate if yes (possiable ) bad head gasket
also could have leak your not seing look closely around where intake meets heads notice any water trails or see any water leaking ? if yes bad intake gaskets look closely around water pump any trails of water there ? if so bad water pump also check closely around seams of raditor for water trails
after all this u dont see any thing might need to take it to a shop and have it pressure tested (some leaks will only show up under pressure) most shops won' t charge much if anything for this service
If the cap wont go back on then I don't know whats going on there.
If you mean the COVER or fuel door, then I would say your cable release is gummed up and sticking. Get some WD and spray the latching point on the car and then push the door in and let it spring back a couple times..spray again and repeat.....do this until the door stays shut. Then the next time you are getting an oil change get the station mechanic to spray the latch with some white lithium or other approved lubricant.
right old trick ,with assistant ,who has to be pretty and blonde ,get assistant to push and hold pedal down ,then you go underneath and using a bar wedged in somewhere push the actuator arm in so the slave closes,as you push it in open bleed nut,then assistant lets the pedal up and repeat ,push pedal down and holds it down whilst you force the arm back with bleed valve open ,close valve and blonde assistant releases the pedal.easy when you know how
Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Raditor Hose.
Leaking Head Gasket.
Thermostat Stuck Closed.
Worn or Damaged Raditor Cap.
Raditor Fins Obstructed.
Missing or Broken Water Pump Belt.
Heater Core May Be Leaking Antifreeze/Coolant into The Vehicles Floor Area.
Intake Manifold Gasket
Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
Cooling Fan Switch - Raditor
Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Sensor/Switch.
Leaking Water Pump.
Raditor Fan Motor
Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Motor.
Relay - Raditor Cooling Fan Motor
Faulty Cooling Fan Relay.
Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).