Question about 2002 Chrysler 300M
How to replace them
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The dealer's answer (if you are interested).......
The ball joint is pressed into the upper control arm and has a tapered stud for attachment to the steering knuckle. The ball joint stud is attached and locked into the steering knuckle using a special nut. The ball joint is a sealed-for-life type and requires no maintenance. If the ball joint is defective it will require replacement of the entire upper control arm.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
SOURCE: AC belt on 1999 Chrysler 300M
When you replace the AC belt you really should replace the serpentine belt as well, since you will have to take it off already. If you don't do it now it is inevitable that you will have to replace it in like 3 weeks anyway : )
You need to first remove the serpentine belt by loosening the nut in the center of the idler pulley. After that you will need to loosen the push bolt on the side of the idler pulley. The hub bolt is a 15mm size and the push bolt on the side of the tensioner is a 13mm I think. After you loosen it sufficiently, you will need to pull off the old belt.
Next you will need to loosen the tensioner pulley for the AC belt as well. It is the same process. The main issue is space. You will most likely need to raise your car to get at the right angles to loosen these pulleys.
Once you loosen the idler pulley in the same manner as you loosened the other, you can slip the AC belt onto the back of the crank pulley and route it as the diagram under your hood instructs you. Next tighten up the idler pully in the opposite way as you loosend it...tighten up the push bolt until the belt play is within factory specifications, then tighten the hub bolt in the center of the pulley. Do the same for the serpentine belt and you should be up and running in no time. I just performed these tasks on my 2000 300m and I wish someone would have told me this before I started my project. Hope this helps, Good Luck!
Posted on May 26, 2009
I do not believe that the balljoint is causing the squeak. Take your car to an independent mechanic that you trust. dealerships are notorius for mis-diagnosing (it begins with the intake person describing the problem wrong).
More than likely, the squeak is coming from a worn rubber bushing or mount. Check the exhast pipe hangers for worn rubber. Also check the anti-sway bar bushings and the motor mounts. You should be able to replace these with ordinary tools (assuming you have safe access to the botom of the car - i.e. jack stands). Also check the control arm bushings (these would require an expert, or a pro to replace).
If the balljoint boot is cracked, you can prolong the ball joint life by keeping it well greased. If grease is oozing out the crack, then the balljoint is protected. Replacing the balljoint boot requires separating the wheel spindle from the control arm and can be very dangerous because of the strut spring. This should be left to the expert, or professional mechanic. Also, if the ball joint is squeaking, it needs to be replaced.
If you still want to tackle this yourself, buy a Chilton or similar book (under $10) specifically for your car. They have good instructions and diagrams.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
under the glove box,pull out plastic push pin holding plastic duct work and remove duct piece,three screws holding blower motor cover,remove them,then disconnect blower motor wires at connector,remove three screws holding motor up in place.
watch the mice don't fall on you!
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
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