Question about 1995 Chevrolet C/K 2500

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Brakes i put a back line in from front to back and tried to bleed brake but i can't get fluid down line. master cylinder is full won't pump through.

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Also, Take the brake fluid can and a piece of rubber hose long enough to reach between the can and the bleeder valve(the one you open to bleed fluid out at the caliper). Make sre the rubber hose fits the nipple then have a friend pump the pedal and then hold the pedal and open the bleeder. the pressure will push fluid into the can so onlyhave it filled half way then it will **** fluid back into the system leaving you with less pump and hold time. Some have a equlizer valve in the system but I will tell you about that if this does not work?

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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Take the fitting at the caliper completely off and try.
Did you bend the tubing yourself, or was it pre-bent?
If you did it yourself, look for a kink in the bend.
It should only take a few full pumps to get fluid to the back.
If there is no fluid, the equalizing valve needs to be replaced.
If you purchased a pre-bent line, did you take the plugs out of both ends? they put plastic plugs in to keep dirt+debris out during storage.
If you need more help, we're here.

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

2 Answers

Brake system all new but pedal goes to the floor


double check the brake master cylinder and brake piston cylinder.

Mar 11, 2015 | GMC Sierra Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My brake pedal goes all the way to the floor there is no any brake oil leak i replace the brake master cylinder i bleed the system but still the same what is the correct procedure to bleed brake system...


fill master cylinder, start at right rear. the way I do it is make sure cap is back on master cylinder. pump the brakes a few times then hold them. have another person open the bleeder valve at the tires until brakes go to floor. hold them down until bleeder is retightened but be sure master cylinder is not out of fluid. then go to left rear and do the same procedure, then right front, then left front. check fluid and if air is all out there should be brakes. good-day ! THIS IS HOW I HAVE ALWAYS DONE IT ! heres a little trick of sorts. you can change a master cylinder, and if you bench bleed it first. and no fluid is lost from the master cylinder lines you do not need to bleed the whole system. but make sure cylinder is full of fluid before putting on vehicle and all air is out of master cylinder.

Oct 23, 2011 | 1997 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

1992 olds regency ninty eight. Break pedal seems to go down futher than it should when applying. when stopped at a light brake pedal seems to slip going further down some. Checked for leaks on brake lines...


if master cylinder is bad. the pedal will go to floor running or not.when the pedal goes down at a standing stop it is usually the master cylinder thats bad. and losing vacuum. thats if there are no other leaks at wheel cylinders etc. if putting on a new master cylinder, do not forget to bench bleed it! heres how. put the master cylinder in the vise, fill it full of fluid then pump the plunger with a dowel or something soft as to not ruin plunger part.do not let it run dry ! when fluid comes out from master cylinder and no more air is in it. fill it up and put on car. heres what I do! remove the lines from old cylinder on car. as long as you do not lose any fluid doing this, there is no need to bleed air from brakes when done. after on car make sure master cylinder is full of fluid. start the car and pump the brakes a few times, then you should be all set.

Aug 29, 2011 | 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

1 Answer

I have a 1994 GMC Serra i had a brake line that started to leak for the back brakes so i replaced the whole line from the front to the back and i went to bleed the brakes for the back i had a helper pump...


If you have replaced the line from the front to the back, there is a lot of air in the line. The proper way to bleed the brakes (for the average guy with no shop) is to;

#1, OPEN the bleeder screw,
#2 THEN have your friend push the brake pedal down fully to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN. Then you
#3 CLOSE the bleeder, so no air can enter the line from there,
#4 THEN have your friend let the pedal up after you have closed the bleeder screw.

Repeat this process untill you have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Remember, after your friend has pumped the brakes a few times, the fluid level in the Master Cylinder's reservior will
go down, and you need to refill it as the fluid gets pumped into the line. Do not let it go empty, or you will have to start all over again. Every time the brakes get pumped, the fluid will only go down the line a few inches, so you will have to do this Procedure many times, like 15 or so.

Once you get the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, do the bleed procedure a couple more times, until there IS NO AIR left in the system and all that is coming out is fluid with NO bubbles.

You MUST do BOTH sides, right AND left of the rear, as there is only a single line to the rear, which splits into two above the axle, and now there will be air in both sides. Then, tighten the screw, top off the master cylinder, and you are done.

If you simply opened up the bleeder screw, and then pumped the brakes with it open the whole time, the master cylinder simply pulled air back into itself every time you let the brake pedal up, resulting in no fluid being pumped into the line.

Also, if the master cylinder ever was EMPTY, then you may have to bleed the cylinder itself. This is done by disconnecting the brake line (rear brake, the one you just had off) from the cylinder, and putting a hose from the line inlet in a small loop back into the master cylinder's reservior. Then, pump the brakes. The cylinder will then pump the fluid directly back into itself. The idea is that you do not let the master cylinder pull any air back into itself, from the line inlet. So, as the cylinder pumps out the air, the only thing it can get back in is FLUID. Do this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the line.

Then perform the above-mentioned Bleeding Procedure. If you do the Bleeding Procedure correctly, and the fluid level in the master cylinder does NOT go down, and you are still not getting fluid to the bleeder screw, then that will tell you that you have to bleed the Master Cylinder.

Good Luck To You.

Jun 21, 2011 | 1994 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

I am trying to bleed my front brakes and I keep gettting air in the line. when everything is shut and I pump the brake I hear air in the master cylinder. does that mean it is the master cylinder? 1978...


you have to keep master cylinder topped up as you bleed brakes
start at the furthest wheel from master cylinder slow pumps on the pedal holding down as your companion opens open bleed nipple'if your doing it yourself open bleed screw and fit small tube over nipple and put tube into small container half filled with brake fluid and just pump pedal yourself goodluck

Mar 24, 2011 | Chevrolet K2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When braking have to step on the brake more than once and I already change the master cilinder


did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on car. if not there is air in braking system. you can try this, have someone pump the brakes and hold them. when loosening line the brakes will go to floor, tell person to hold them till line is retightened. loosen one brake line to get trapped air out. close line and have person pump then hold the brakes and repeat above till the brakes go to floor. if this does not get all air out! then bleed at wheels. ( how to bench bleed master cylinder ).----- put in vise, fill resovoir full of brake fluid. use a dowel or similar to pump master cylinder,pump untill fluid is free of air bubbles shoots out that has no more air in it. keep fluid in it or you will get more air in it. when putting on car have fluid in it. as long as you do not loose fluid from lines, you should be ok!! have a good holiday !! if all else fails. be sure there is no leaks at the wheels or brake lines. usually if a wheel cylinder is leaking. you will see this on inside of wheels on backing plate. be sure to fill fluid when done.

Dec 15, 2010 | 1992 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes


You need to make sure you have an assistant. The assistant keep adding fluid and pumping the brakes while you operate the bleeder screws.

The procedure--LF,RF,LR,RR (left front, right front,etc). You are moving from the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder. Use an aquarium air hose (12 inch length), and a clear jar to catch the brake fluid. When no more bubbles escape through the hose, the caliper or cylinder is properly bled.

If the level drops below the LOW mark, air may reenter the system. Keep the reservoir full by checking after each bleed!

Mar 26, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab

1 Answer

Unable to bleed front brakes


loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck

Jul 01, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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