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Hi Ronald, Get ready for a lot of work! The first thing is to clean the engine of all dirt and contaminants that may cause damage when the head id removed. When the engine is cold disconnect the battery. Remove the air cleaner ducting and housing and then drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block. The coolant drain plug on the engine block sometimes becomes corroded so be careful and if it is too tight leave it. Get yourself some masking tape and mark all the relevant electrical connections before removing them. If your engine is the type with timing gears turn it to Top Dead Center (TDC) and once set leave it. If it has a timing belt remove the front plastic timing cover and look for and identify the match marks for valve timing. If you can't see them make your own marking the TDC positions of the camshaft in relation to the cylinder head, (This may save you a lot of pain and suffering later) If the engine is diesel, identify or match mark the timing gear in relation to Crank Shaft and Cam Shaft. Remember the body of the injector pump when turned is also an adjustment so match mark the pump body to the engine. With a diesel, mark the pipes and make a sketch of where each pipe fits onto the distributor type pump. (Do not bend the pipes) If it's a petrol engine mark the position of each of the HT plug leads, remove the distributor cap and sketch the position of the rotor arm in relation to the cap. (In other words note which way it's facing. Remove the cap and the plug leads. mark all vacuum tubes for later reinstatement before disconnecting. Disconnect all electrical connections (Which you should have marked) Remove the tappet cover and clean the oil, which should be correctly taken care of. If the engine has a timing belt, loosen the tensioner bearing to its maximum adjustment and making sure that the timing marks are still aligned remove the belt. If it has a belt it will usually have overhead cam. If gears it will likely have a rocker shaft assembly and push rod operated valves. Begin to loosen these from the front and back working in to the center of the head. Loosen each bolt evenly, one turn at a time until the whole cam or rocker assembly is loose and can be removed. Keep in mind that up until this point certain valves will be open and under tension Once removed the the valves will then be fully closed. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, alternately loosening from each end working towards the center. Remove the radiator cooling hoses and ensure that bypass hoses are removed too. Make sketches of the fitting positions before removal. Closely inspect all areas where bolts and brackets may impede the removal, and if any remain, remove them. Careful inspection and recording will help you greatly during assembly. You are now ready to remove the cylinder head. Begin at the front of the engine by loosening the first bolt of the cylinder head and then go to the rear and loosen the bolt diagonally opposite. Follow the same loosening sequence working towards the center until all bolts are loosened. and then remove them. The cylinder head can now be removed. In the case of the engine being diesel powered, look at the outer edge of the gasket where you should see an indicator of the gasket thickness. This is very important when buying the replacement gasket (never reuse an old gasket) The thickness is in relation to the piston protrusion above the engine block and if the replacement is too thin, the valves will collide with the pistons during operation (which ain't very good for pistons or valves!) If the gasket is too thick the compression will not be achieved for maximum performance. I suggest that when the head is removed, after cleaning it should be taken to an engineering company for checking and if warped it should be lightly skimmed. The tightening sequence is opposite to removal, meaning begin at the center and work outwards. This applies to the cylinder head, manifolds and tappet cover. In fact not a bad idea for everything you apply a spanner or wrench to. Ps. Why do you want to take the head off? Just asking. Regards John
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got the repair manual for the WL engine 676 page zip pdf type file used in the ranger and drifter down load and find ranger drifter engine body and chassis folder look for the ranger drifter repair manual ..its 13882 kb
Do not wash your engine with a pressure washer,you probably ruined quite a few electric components,never ever do that.check all electrical componants.Coil pack-alternator,fuse blocks-starter-all electrical components under hood
Its called your heater core,and it is a major job to do because most of the time you have to pull most of your dash out to get at them,I would buy a Haynes repair manual before I started on a job like that one
In model year 1998, Mazda B series renews its own international markets. Production at the plant AutoAlliance Thailand began in May 1998. This model is also sold as the Ford Ranger in Europe and Asia, and the Ford Courier in Australia and New Zealand. Production started this year in the factories of companies AutoAlliance Thailand and Ford Motor Philippines. Versions CKD are also assembled in South Africa, Ecuador and Colombia.
The van is sold in over 130 countries under a variety of names. Along with the emblems of Fighter and Ranger in Southeast Asia (except Singapore, which served as the flagship models Proceed Japan), was sold as the Mazda Bounty and Ford Courier in New Zealand, Mazda Bravo in Australia, and Mazda Drifter in South Africa.
Engine options: 2.2 L 2.2 L (2.184 cc) 85 hp (63 kW) 2.5 L (1.998 cc) turbo diesel 118 hp (88 kW) 2.6 L (2.606 cc) 121 hp (90 kW)
Fig. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts in 2 stages
Clean the mating surfaces on the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head.
Install a new gasket and the exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts in sequence as follows: