Question about Cars & Trucks
Just make sure the number 1 piston is up and intake valvw is open and exhaust is closed
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1985 jetta diesel timing
The procedure is given in the Hayes manual. You need to turn the cam shaft gear so that the front valves (two valves close to the gear point up) are close and the notch on the cam shaft other end is horizonal (side facing the battery). You need to bring the flywheel (in bellhousing) to top dead center (you will see a notch on flywheel and a fixed pointer on the bellhousing. The notch should be in line with the ponter. After that, you need to bring the injection pump at certain pisition. Then you can mount the belt. It is not a difficult process, I have been doing it, but you need certain tools that will make it easy, such as cam lock position tool, injection pump lock pin, gear remover, etc.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
The timing marks are stamped into the steel pulley and flywheel and there should be a pointer attached to the engine. Degreasing the engine with GUNK and power washing it should uncover them.
I'm pretty sure it's crucial to have the engine timed to TDC as it relates to the end of compression/beginning of power stroke, and NOT the end of exhaust stroke.
With gas engines I do the following, to determine the TDC, by removing the #1 plug and insert a long straw, while turning the motor by hand watch for the maximum height of the straw, this will give you a TDC but knowing if its on the exhaust or compression stroke can only be determined if you were watching the closure of the intake valve indicating the begining of the next power stroke. Once you have this set look for the timing marks again. if you can't find them pick up a service manual at the library or autoparts store for photos and instructions.
Also check this site: http://forums.vwvortex.com
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
I'd be careful as you know that is a zero clearance engine. Pull #1 spark plug after you get everything lined back up. Make sure it's all the way up and on the compression stroke. With #1 cam lobe up the valve should be closed and seated in the head. #1 piston should not be interfering with the valve lash. Mark the belt, cam gears, and crank clearly. This way when you pull the belt off, you can line the marks back up at any time and you won't lose any ground. What you can do is to pull the plugs and watch the cam lobes. If you have one going down, and a piston coming up...bingo that's your problem cylinder. Here's a tip from an old timer. Make sure the block timing isn't 180 degrees out. After you mark the belt and gears. Remove the belt and spin the crank 180. This will let you move the cam to close the valve on the problem cylinder while doing it. What you're experiencing is a timing issue. Figure out what that is and then line everything back up and you'll be back on the salt flats in no time. I'd be willing to bet that something is 180 degrees out no more tear down involved, just proper alignment.
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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