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Clutch no pressure in clutch pedal. have tried bleeding the clutch and get fluid to run out, but still no pressure in pedal. was told the 'old method ' of opening thte cap for a day or two but that hasn't worked yet either. also have tried to remove cylinder but the nut is stuck strong. ie the whole thing moves and fear breaking off from the support screws... pls help!!!?? Kenny

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1 Answer

Have to replace the entire slave assy

Get it off the best you can

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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autodr
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SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 suzuki Forenza....clutch pedal all the way to

If no fluid loss,then i would squeeze the fluid line (rubber part) to the slave cylinder. If you now have pressure in the pedal replace the slave cylinder. If still no pressure then change the clutch master cylinder.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0

Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: no clutch pedal been bleeding it for 3 days

these are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Chevy Silverado - Clutch Slave Cylinder broke

JB weld will not work get it welded by a pro with the proper hi frequency welder otherwise you will have to replace the box ,and yes get a new cylinder ,hope you get sorted

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

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1 Answer

Have 90 toyota 4runner just replaced slave cylinder plenty of fluid but the clutch pedal just flops around no resistence either way. any answers?


Hello, try opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, leave it open, pull the pedal up and then pump the pedal down and pull it up repeatedly until you feel some pressure, close the valve and try bleeding the rest of the air out in the normal manner.

Nov 03, 2012 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2000 jeep wrangler clutch has to pressure and thus wont allow me to put it in gear.


Check the clutch fluid level. If it's low, add some (takes brake fluid). There is a bleed valve down on the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Open the bleed valve and have someone push the clutch pedal slowly to floor, and hold. Close the bleed valve, and repeat until fluid comes out in a steady stream when the pedal is depressed. Your pedal should have pressure now, and the clutch should be working.
If no fluid is forced out the clutch master cylinder, into the line, and to the slave cylinder when clutch is pressed, then you may have a bad clutch master cylinder. If fluid does come out the bleed valve, but still no pressure on the pedal, it may be a bad slave cylinder.
Post back for more. Would like to know what you find out, and what the problem was, OB. Good luck.

Jul 13, 2012 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

How do I fill up the clutch fluid resevoir?


If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid.
Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

qk2cpkiyfjgaaaaasuvork5cyii=Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.
lpd+ipdyjdaaaaaasuvork5cyii=Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be con if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.
zepo2bz1de6vgaaaabjru5erkjggg==I just had some extra ATE brake fluid left over from my brake fluid change so I decided to just use it since it is a DOT3/DOT4 fluid. But high performance fluids are not necessary for the clutch fluid so you can just use regular cheap DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and it won't make a difference.

When you see the fluid in the hose change completely from the old color to the new color then you know the system has been flushed and is now full of new clutch fluid. Have your friend do one l press of the clutch pedal and tighten the bleeder valve once the pedal hits the floor. Since you can't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve, it's important to note it does not need to be very tight so don't try overtightening it and just snug it up with your wrench.

Pump the clutch pedal again and the pressure should return. And that's all, you're finished.

this video tutorial can help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XhFxlkzFI&feature=player_detailpage

Jun 12, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Clutch pedal has no pressure and goes straight to the floor when pressed. clutch disk is in good condition. parked the car the night before was working perfect. next morning no pressure and out of fluid....


Pump the clutch pedal and then check for leaks again, including under the dash where the rod from the pedal goes into the clutch master cylinder. Once you find the leak, replace what's leaking and bleed the system to restore the pressure (bleeds from the slave unit, just like bleeding brakes)

May 30, 2011 | 1996 Honda Civic

1 Answer

I have a 2007 VW Touran, recently serviced. After a motorway run using the cruise control I often find the clutch feels as if it had lost all hydraulic pressure and I have to pump the pedal to get the...


It might be the brake & clutch fluid wrong because it is too old inside. First time change the brake & clutch fluid. If the problem persists then replace both clutch master hydraulic cylinder and clutch receiver hydraulic cylinder. Bleed also correctly the clutch hydraulic line!

Sep 06, 2010 | 2009 Volkswagen Routan

1 Answer

My clutch is not angaging need to see how can i bleed


Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. To bleed the system perform the following:
    1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
    2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
    3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
    4. Release the clutch pedal.
    5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
  3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.
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Aug 03, 2010 | 1998 Audi A4

1 Answer

Ran out of clutch fluid now there is air in line...clutch is all the way to floor...how do i get air out of line...have tried everything


It's a matter of bleeding the clutch system completely. You do need to make sure you don't ,have any leaks at the Clutch Master Cyl. or at the Clutch Slave Cyl or the line running between both, and that you don't have clutch fluid in the drivers compartment just below where the clutch rod comes through the firewall. That would of course mean you have to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder due to internal leakage.

This isn't so unusual, you'll have to pull up on the pedal by hand & pump it a few times to get pressure enough to properly bleed the system, or, you will have to start with bleeding the Clutch Master Cyl. first by loosening the line there & have someone push down the pedal, then before letting up on the pedal, tighten the line to prevent air from being drawn in. Repeat two times to get any air out here.

If your parts and lines are all in good shape then re-fill the resivoir & have someone to pull up on the clutch by hand if needed & then if necessary, use their hand to depress & pull the pedal a few times to try & build some pressure so that you can bleed the Clutch slave cylinder a few times to get all of the air out. After you've finished bleeding the system, the pedal should stay in the up position except when being depressed and you should have consistently even pressure when using the clutch.

good luck.

.


Feb 14, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Hard time shifting. replaced clutch slave cylinder. still shifts hard. plenty of clutch fluid.


Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

Jan 31, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

Clutch bleeding


Try opening bleeder screw on slave cylinder and let it GRAVITY BLEED, just open clutch mater and fill with fluid and then open slave cylinder bleeder screw and let it gravity bleed( run out by itself) When it does close bleeder screw and you should get pressure.(make sure master doesn't run out of fluid during this preocess).If pedal not good enough bleed as usual. PUMP PEDAL ABOUT 6 time then hold down to the floor using wrench open slave bleed screw and close back up with pedal still being held DOWN. Repeat until fluid comes out with out air.However if all this doesn't work, YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE CLUTCH MATER CYLINDER. Conatct if you need more help and Good Luck. Thanks for using FIX YA

Jan 12, 2009 | 2001 Honda Civic

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