Question about Chevrolet Cars & Trucks
Have tried plugs wires dist. cap rotor button egr valve throttle position senser and fuel filter
Are you getting any codes on it? There is two things you might want to change. The first is ya coil and then try it to see if that helps, if not then it could be ya pickup coil in the distrib. And another one is ya map sensor may not be reading air intake right.
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check for a vacuum leak,you could possibly hear a whistle under the hood,or you can spray starter fluid near the intake manifold where the suspect leak could be and if the engine accelerates it has an vacuum leak,try the simple things first,can also be a clogged PCV valve,it is in the valve cover somewhere and it will have a rather large rubber hose going to the intake manifold
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
SOURCE: hard to start and smell gas
have 1994 4.3 cpi and the problem I had sounds same.
It was a leaky pressure line in pletium . easy fix $45.00 part $15.00 gasket.
the leak was caused from the fuel lines rubbing together in pletium.
take the vortec cover off ,then remove air regulator in middle and look inside . I turned on power to key and gas spray came from drivers side of pletium looking in hole.fuel line side. if gas spray on passanger side then gas regulator faulty. takes 5 min to check
After fixing truck runs runs great. no more gas smell in cab.
also you can smell oil for gas
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
Spray the intake with carb cleaner to find the vacuum leak. Check where the EGR mounts and the throttle body gasket sense you had both off.
Posted on May 10, 2009
SOURCE: R&R EGR Valve 97 Nissan
It takes a 17 mm wrench to losen the tubing on both sides of the valve. Then it is a matter of unmounting the bracket and pulling off the vacuum line. Make sure that you losen both lines BEFORE unmounting the bracket or you will never get it off. Sometimes getting the tube fitting (flare nut) loose requires a flare nut spanner wrench. Some EGR vlaves on have one flare unt and have gasket under the EGR valve where it mates to the manifold. Make sure you replace the gasket if yours has one.
(flare nut spanner wrench)
I also recommend that you use a long piece of solid copper wire #10 to push through the tubes to remove the carbon build up.
It really is a matter of time. The most difficult thing about changing an EGR valve is getting the flare nut(s) loose.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 22, 2010
Unfortunetly....these spider injectors and fuel pumps can have very similar symptoms when failing. What I do know is I work on this motor more than any other motor in my shop. Very common with fuel problems...and I can comfortably tell you that they updated the injector kits on these car for a reason. The original model is junk. I have done these on just about every one of my cutomers vehicles over 150,000 miles. However, I am not going to tell you that is your problem....but it sounds fuel related. Did/does your vehicle skip? Leaking injectors will usually cause a skip due to shortage of fuel to that cylinder. I also have a computer that allows me to monitor the firing of each cylinder, and do an injector kill test. This is what I would do first. Unfortunetly, sounds like you can't so start with this: Clean your throttle body. The pintle that the IAC motor pushes in and out goes into a small port. Spray that port out with carb clean. Get a fine wire brush and get that throttle body clean and shinny. That pintle can easily stick on existing carbon in that port...new part or not. Check for vacuum leaking with carb clean...spray it around the intake and vacuum hoses...see if any particular spot changes how it runs when you spray it. Do you have a vacuum gauge? what is manifold vacuum? Since you are in the intake...make sure your puddled fuel is not due to pulling the main lines off the the injector assembly. After intake is off. hook fuel lines and harnes back up to injector assembly. key up (no start) vehicle...this pressurizes fuel system. look for leaking. The fuel pressure regulator is built on to the side of that assembly....its the round diaphragm with the tube coming out of it. If it leaks fuel out...that may be your problem. And you can replace that without doing the whole injector kit...fairly cheap. If not fixed....what is your fuel pressure. You need to have 60-64 PSI at key up. Try the carbon build up and intake test first...both quick, easy, and cheap. If this is not your issues...its sounds fuel related....just want to confirm that you don have a misfire/skip. That could change diagnosis quite a bit. Keep me posted....more than happy to help. By the way....I own all GM's too...lol...haven't learned my lesson yet
Posted on Nov 14, 2010
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