Question about Lexus ES 300
Car stales when you first try to drive it. trying to locate where the vehicle speed sensor is. the code came up to replace it.
Well I'm here to inform you that no OBD
Codes tell you what is wrong or what to
replace,never have since OBD1 started
So your not up to speed
Logically you say speed sensor
How would that cause the car to stall?
The code is the result of a sensor reporting an
out of range condition not in the vehicles programmed
You us the codes & trouble charts to diagnose the cause
of the fault
Then you component test
Then replace or correct what ever needs to
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Have a 1999 lexus es300.
If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal. If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s). Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake. This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.
The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time. After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).
You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums. You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine. While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose. Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff. Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub. Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities. Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools. Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub. Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
the O2 sensor for bank one sensor one is located between the catalytic converter and the engine in the exhaust head pipe. see photo of your engine cylinder layout, the sensor u want to replace is the one at the cylinder #1 bank on right.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
Its in different locations depending on if its 2wd or 4wd. For 2wd its in front of the drice shaft or for 4wd its in the tranfer case, just look for a white shape like box with wires plugged into it and you need a socket to remove it, iam not sure how much it is to replace as the cost varies at different shops.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
My Son has a 95 es300, the amp for it is located under the front passenger seat. The easiest way to access it is to remove the 4 bolts holding the seat down, and remove the seat. Takes about 5 minutes
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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