Question about Ford F-150
Its a 1972 F-250 4x4. 390 4-Speed. I replaced the Ign. switch. Solenoid. battery, terminals, and engine compartment wires were needed.
On your fire wall where the wires come out of the truck you will have what is called an inline fuse. It is gone and there is no way to replace it. It will be black in color and should be on a orange wire. It is about an inch in leangth. Cut it out and put a new inline fuse you can buy at ya auto parts store for around 5 bucks. It should have a 20amp fuse to it. This should take care of ya troubles.
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1995 camry has no ignition fire
I think for sure that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. This can happen if your water pump, or your idler pulley, which are driven by the timing belt, "locks up" for a second. Best advice: replace the timing belt (you should not "reuse" it, as once it slips a tooth, that tooth is now weakend. Also, check the feel of the water pump impeller-gear...if it feels gritty or does not spin freely, replace the water pump while you are in there. It's not much more work. Also check the IDLER pulley for the same feel. If it feels bad/does not spin free, replace it. One or the other caused your problem.
Let me know how it turen out.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
SOURCE: engine wont crank
im looking at that circuit , on the start relay on your radiator support , red is always hot via fusible link , purple to solenoid as you say , orange/black wire should be hot in run or start mode , if it is not the fuse for that wire is PCM/ABS 10 amp located fuse block in driver door jam , it does go through the nuetral saftey switch , the yellow wire going to the PCM must ground that relay to activate start mode . last note there is a PCM/CRANK fuse in the driver door jam also , 10 amp , if all this is good i would like to hear more . 1 more note about the nuetral saftey switch is the pink wire going in and the orange/black wire coming out should have continuity in park and nuetral ....let us know thanks
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
IF YOU HAVE A POINTS TYPE DISTRIBUTER, THE WIRING WILL BE: TO ENERGIZE THE STARTER SOLENOID A LARGE, ABOUT A NUMBER 12 OR 14 GAUGE WIRE WILL GO TO THE INNER MOST SMALL TERMINAL ON THE STARTER SOLENOID. IT MAY BE PURPLE IN COLOR. THE SECOND SMALLER WIRE SHOULD GO TO THE OUTER SOLENOID TERMINAL AND GO FROM THERE TO THE + TERMINAL ON THE IGNITION COIL. THIS IS FOR BY PASSING THE RESISTOR WIRE FROM THE STARTER IGNITION SWITCH. THE LARGER BATTERY CABLE WILL GO TO THE UPPER TERMINAL ON THE STARTER SOLENOID. THERE MAY BE AN ADDITIONAL BATTERY FEED WIRE TAKE OFF FROM THE STARTER BATTERY TERMINAL POST ON THE SOLENOID FOR OTHER ACCESSORIES. THIS TYPE OF SYSTEM (POINTS TYPE) WAS TYPICALLY DONE AWAY WITH IN 1975 WHEN THE HEI DISTRIBUTOR CAME OUT.
Posted on May 05, 2009
I would suspect the ignition control if you have already replaced all that stuff. I personally would replace it with an MSD ignition for better running and fuel mileage, but the ignition module should be a whole lot cheaper.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
unfortuneately there is no shortcuts....But if there was for sure I'd tell you...it's really not hard....just take off the panelling on the lower and you can sneak it in and out...get back to me...I'M HERE TO HELP!!
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
Testimonial: "hey everybody these answers are on the money...., everyone should get this type of service from their auto service center thank you for your help jame"
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