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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is not necessary to have the dealer do this, think of the cash! Though it does require patience and time. The pin you are supposed to push in goes into a slot when you have it in run position, since you cannot turn it to run you have to make a slot for the pin to go into, with a drill. Be very careful as you only have a 1/4" of play before you break a washer behind the cylinder. Once you have drilled out the key far enough to the pin hole you can take a nail set and tap the pin up, you can tell when the pin clears the housing, then it just takes wiggle, patience and tinkering to get the cylinder to slide out, keep the green washer and the metal slot washer. Metal slot washer goes in first with green plastic washer ontop of that with lock cylinder in last. You can play around with the new lock cylinder and washer before insertion to determin correct direction.
Here are official directions with inoperable lock cylinder. They say drill out retaining pin but it just spun in circles for me - I looked at new cylinder and saw how it worked. retaining pin needs a place to go.
Removal & Installation (Non-Functional)
NOTE:Use this procedure to remove ignition lock cylinder if key is missing or cylinder is frozen.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disable air bag system. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS. Wait at least one minute for air bag back-up power supply to deplete. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Using a 1/8" bit, drill out retaining pin located below lock cylinder on housing. DO NOT drill deeper than 1/2".
Using channel lock pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from lock cylinder. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill down center of ignition lock key slot about 1 3/4" until lock cylinder breaks loose from its base.
Remove retainer, washer, and lock cylinder gear from housing. Remove metal shavings from lock cylinder bore. Replace housing if damaged. To install, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable. Check air bag system for proper system operation. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS.
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Loosen the belt and remove it from the pump pulley. Disconnect the lower hose to drain remaining fluid from the pump. You can tie this hose up or fit a plug into the end of it to stop unnecessary fluid drain. Disconnect the other hose and tie it or plug it. Now the only thing holding your pump are the mounting bolts. Remove them and pull your pump out...Voila!
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
Testimonial: "His advice was very helpful, although I still have a problem that I must solve. He said he would still continue to look into it for me. Thank you"
GO TO AUTO ZONE - ADVANCE AUTO - OREILLYS. BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.IT HAS WIRING DIAGRAM FOR EACH CIRCUIT.LIKE HEATING + AC CIRCUITS INTERIOR LIGHTS EXTERIOR LIGHTS STARTING + CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING DASH SYSTEM POWER DOORS + POWER WINDOWS + RADIO SYSTEM + CRUISE CONTROL + WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM.ALSO HAS WIRING DIAGRAM FOR ALL THE PCM SENSORS.AND THE PCM ALSO.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
You can remove that center bolt easily with an impact gun. It has normal threads on it. An impact gun will prove to be an affordable tool that you will use again. You can get an electric one from Harbor Freight. They make the job of removing tough bolts much easier. If the engine is in the car, you might not have enough room. You can use a ratchet and if the engine is turning, you can hold the pulley with another tool sold at Harbor Freight called a rubber strap wrench.
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
Testimonial: "Will report again when the job is done. Thanks for this info: 1) Center bolt is normal thread 2) Tools can be pruchased at Harbor Freight"
the crankshaft pulley is also called the harmonic balancer.At any parts house checker,autozone,ect. will have the tool you need.It is called a harmonic balancer puller and bolts to the pulley and pulls it off.Let me know if this helped.
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
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