Question about 1991 Volvo 940

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Melted wires on the postive battery terminal

So my volvo started having issues starting, at first the rpms wouldn't get high enough to keep it running unless I reved the engine for a few minutes before driving, then it just stopped starting at all unless it was jumped. Managed to get it in to get checked and the test showed the alternator was going bad. Pulled it, got it tested and it's still fine. Started looking around to see what else could be wrong and noticed that whoever worked on it last stripped the end of one of the wires leading to the POS terminal on the battery and it had melted into the casing which solves my no power getting to the rest of the car problem. Does anyone know what the wire may go to? It is one of 2 smaller secondaries that run off the pos side and seeing as I'm not that experienced with cars yet I have no idea what they go to...... I think it may be the fuse box but not positive

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  • Volvo Master
  • 5,252 Answers

One of those secondaries will be the feeder for the ignition switch. The other may be for the fuse box, or may be for something else that is powered at all times-like the headlight switch. Here's how to clean it up:
First take off the negative battery cable-negative first to avoid sparking. Now you can pull off the positive. Most new positive battery cables only come with one "pigtail" or secondary insulated wire. But if you tell the parts person you have a Volvo and the year, they may have a cable specifically for your car with two secondaries. Or you could try the dealer for the right cable.
Barring that, if you just want to fix your old cable without buying a new one, you could take the stripped wire and crimp a new eyelet connector on the end and wrap the bare portion with several wraps of electrical tape. Now put the big cable terminal on the battery post, take off the nut on the tightener bolt, put the eyelet connector over the bolt, and tighten the nut down on the bolt. Now both secondary wires are attached? Put the negative post on and tighten it down. To avoid corrosion at the posts you can smear a little petroleum jelly (vaseline) on the post and cable connections, if you want.

Posted on Dec 01, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 volvo again, 240 DL battery / start problems.../

hi check/ clean all fuses they corrode /where the fuse connects in the holder i use a phillips screwdriver to clean the brass ends and replace the fuses they (they may and do loose contact under load which will stop the car from charging and flatten the battery good luck hope it works out
regards ray w QLD OZ

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

RonPark
  • 855 Answers

SOURCE: issue with dash lights dimming while driving,

If the battery and alternator tested fine. I would have the charging system rechecked when engine is hot and at high rpm's. This way the checks are being done as if you were driving and driving for a long time. Alternators can work fine when cold but weaken when hot or stop working. This problem is not rare but only is seen occassionly. Unless it was checked at an electrical shop the average shop doesn't run these tests for they don't see the problem often enough to automaticly run them at all times. Good luck and let me know how you make out.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

  • 396 Answers

SOURCE: Have a 1996 Volvo 850... left the light on and

sounds like you need a new battery, also have the alternater checked. as far as the alarm, you should be able to disarm the system by locking and unlocking the passengers door, then the drivers door with the key, when the door are closed

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

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