Question about Dodge Neon
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are two types of cv joints used. One type bolts on the other you have to pop out. Do this by prying it out with a big screwdriver. A c-clip hods it in and it will pop out for you. When reinstalling be sure it seats back in.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
this is a very very simple procedure. you do not need pics. there is a sensor located at the end of the engine on the far side from the belts. at the top. it has a plug with two wires in it. just remove the two 10mm bolts un hook the plug and reverse the process to reinstall. if you have a factory intake you may have to remove it to access this sensor. just the intake tube.
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
Remove the wheel and the lower ball joint from the spindle. It will also make it easier if you remove the tie rod end. There is a large hut at the tire end of the axel. Remove that nut and washer. Take a rubber or brass Hammer and hit the end of the axel to push it through the bearing assembly. If it is really stuck, put the nut back on so that the nut is even with the end of the axel and uses a heavier hamer to break it loose. Once you break it loose, pull back on the rotor while pushing the axel to remove it from the hole it passes through. (Becarefull with the brake hose. If it is pulling too tight it might be best to remove the caliper and use a hanger to suspend it until you are done.) You will need a really BIG screw driver or a pry bar. Put the pry bar between the case and the hub of the axel and push in quickly and firmly to pop it out of the trans axel. It might take a few tries. If it resists look for a ridge and put a big screw drive on the ridge and use a hammer to pop it out.
Once it is out, reverse directions. Do not use the hammer on the new axel any where.put the end into the trans axel as far as it will go and then put the other end through the wheel bearing. Use the leverage you have with the rotor and bearing side to push the axel into the trans. You should hear it snap into place. Before you put the ball joint back on go to the trans axel side and use that pry bar and gently try to remove. if it resists it is seated, if it slides out, you need to seat it again. ONce you are sure it is firmly seated back into the trans, you can bump the ball joint and tie rod back together.
Good luck and be careful
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
Firstly, make sure the seal you fitted is the correct one, sounds silly but I have been given the wrong seals by parts people. It pays to check. Next, if you have fitted the seal correctly, and made sure that the seal is in flush with the housing, then it may be that the shaft is worn and may have a groove in it which was caused by the old seal. Pull the shaft out again and check for this groove in the shaft. If it does have the groove, you will need to find and purchase a steel sleeve which is fitted over the worn section of the shaft and ensures a nice clean and tight surface for the new seal to run on, thus stopping the leak.. Here in australia these sleeves are called "speedy Sleeves" and are available from any bearing shop and auto parts stores. The sleeve has a removable step on it which is used to tap the sleeve onto the shaft ( with a small hammer) and is then removed by twisting it sideways with pliers or sidecutters. The sleeve has a scored edge to help with this. Once you have removed the step, carefully clean up the edge with very fine grade rubbing paper ( wet and dry or fine emery cloth) with Oil applied to it to remove any sharp edges BEFORE you refit the shaft into the gearbox. This ensures that the new sleeve does not damage the seal. Re-assemble everything and test drive. As long as the seal is correct and fitted correctly and the sleeve is fitted correctly this will stop the leak. Have fun..
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
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