Question about Cars & Trucks
When driven after 100 yards or 10 miles now and then it cuts out and will not start, i thought it was the h,p, fuel pump have tested with replacement same fault found today it i take key out for 10 secs it starts no prob so think its a security fault were do i start
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi You need to get the ecu checked for fault codes if there are none it is possibly low fuel pressure you should allso check this have you changed the fuel filter or opened any fuel lines this could introduce air
which will lower fuel pressure.Good luck Chris.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
BEFORE YOU TRY TO START YOUR CAR, TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION AND STOP TO HEAR A WHISSING SOUND COMING FROM YOUR FUEL TANK. IF YOU HEAR THAT NOISE, THAT IS YOUR FUEL PUMP ENGAGING AND IT IS WORKING FINE. IF NOT, YOU SHOULD DEFINITELY GET IT CHANGED. ITS A GRUELING PROCESS SO HAVE A MECHANIC DO IT. IF YOUR FUEL PUMP IS WORKING, TRYING CHECKING THE PRESSURE OF YOUR FUEL. YOU MIGHT NEED A NEW FUEL FILTER(IT CAN GET CLOGGED UP) OR YOUR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR MAY BE MALFUNCTIONING.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
SOURCE: pajero keeps cutting out
sounds like injection pump seals want changing mine is same not got round to doin em yet but it will just get worse ,very common on pajero's seal kit not expensive bout £20 if ya can do it ya self other than that ya prob lookin at £200-£300
take a look at www.pocuk.com
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
First things you need are a digital multi-meter and a chilton or haynes manual (together, both are far cheaper than the first incorrect diagnosis you may make)
Second, you will need time to first study the manual and run diagnostic tests on each component.
Every engine needs fuel air and spark in order to start and run Air is pretty much a "given" unless there is a big fat woodchuck stuck in the air filter box. Air flow is regulated by the throttle body which simply opens and closes when you press down on the gas pedal.
(which should really be called the air pedal)
The computer sensors see the internal conditions: TPS "watches" how far you have depressed the pedal. Computer sees that info and changes fuel delivery ans timing according to info from there after comparing info from other sensors, MAP measures the difference in external (ambient) air pressure and compares it with manifold vacuum.Map sensor info translates to proper shift points, engine timing changes and fuel delivery etc. Manifold air temp, measures exactly that.
Coolant temp sensor monitors the engine temp by measuring coolant temp Crank position sensor sends a signal telling the computer exactly where (what position the crankshaft is in) And cam position sensor tells the computer what the position of the camshaft is.Usually an engine will run with a bad sensor except for the tps, cam sensor, and sometimes map sensor. Your asd relay needs a signal from the crank sensor (through the computer) or it will not permit fuel to reach the injectors and will also prevent spark. The cam sensor does much the same thing. Crank Position sensors have a relatively high failure rate so I'd look at that first.
O2 sensor(s) measure the amount of O2 present in the exhaust and send that info to the computer which alters fuel delivery to attempt to keep exhaust "in range" of pre-set parameters.
The IAC (Idle air control) is not a sensor. It responds to what the computer tells it to do in regards to keeping the air in "balance" with fuel flow at idle.
Carburetors remained relatively clean because the fuel and air was mixed there and sent down to the combustion chambers. With injection, only air goes through the throttle body and that leads to "crud" deposits that can obstruct the valve or keep the plunger off the seat and alter the air/fuel mixture. Passageways need to be cleaned and the plunger end as well...but, never turn the plunger while doing that.
The computer takes all the information and uses it to maintain proper spark control and fuel delivery for every load condition.
The computer needs a good connection to all sensors, a good power supply and good ground.
Always check those things before testing. A bad connection in the ignition switch can cause a low or no current condition at the computer. Your engine has two main grounds (battery to block and block to firewall) but also has several smaller ground connections on the fenders and block, all of which need to be clean and secure. Always test with a known good fully charged battery or no test info is valid. All fuses need to be tested before running any other tests.
Bottom line: A shop needs to do the same testing I mentioned that is in the manual. A shop also has a hand held or larger scanner that helps them run tests faster.
Find out whats missing (spark or fuel) and work first on items that make that happen.
Most common failure is the CPS. Fuel pump is second in line, but if you hear it running likely it's good (but make sure the fuel is reaching the injectors...a dirty fuel filter can prevent that)
Guessing gets expensive and the manual will come in handy for many repairs later (never a bad thing to have)
If you have any questions along the way just ask and I or someone else will give you an answer.
Most times running a full diagnostics can be both annoying and frustrating. Keep away from sledge hammers the urge to use them may overcome you but if you stay with it, you can find your problem.
Posted on May 26, 2010
Testimonial: "Very knowledgable. he explains stuff in a language you can understand and seems to know what he is talking about. Too bad he dont live near me...i would make him my mechanic;0)"
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