Question about 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer Ext

1 Answer

I have had my water pump changed 3 times now Aug 27, it is Nov now. They told me they finally found the problem that the fan clutch was causing the water pump to leak. however I am STILL smelling an

I feel it still is not fixed properly. should I still be able to smell antifreeze?

Posted by on

1 Answer

Ever think maybe one time at that shop was enough?

In 49 years-- I only had one water pump fail a couple
months later & I suspect it was a bad rebuilt part

We can see,look or smell from the internet-- so
find a 30 years old family shop that knows how to
repair your issues

Posted on Dec 01, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: Heater Core Leaking

you could quick fix! but you will have no heat, 1st under the hood, look at the back of motor, follow all you're radiator hoses, take two hoses off the heater core stick a pipe that is big enough then clamp the pipe down. to both sides of hoses to the pipe you will eventually have to replace heater core!!

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

dgjtex
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: antifreeze smell and smoke coming out of vents

This is definitely a heater core issue, but I might also suggest one of the many over the counter cures first before replacing it, the heater core is not a very expensive part but quite a chore to replace.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Tahoe that leaks antifreeze but is not

check oil and make sure you do not have coolant mixing in with the oil if so then it is your intake gasket mine has done that twice

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: strong antifreeze smell when running the heater in

Usually a smell of antifreeze in the cab when the heater is running is a sign the heater core is leaking. Just becasue you dont see a leak at this time doesn't mean there isn't one. It might small enough that the haet from the core is burning off the leaking antifreeze. I would suggest replacing the core before you get in one day and there is a puddle on your floorboard. Or if you go to a local parts store and rent a cooling system pressure tester, wait until the vehicle is cold, pressure the system to 12 lbs and then check for leaks. Hope this helps you out......

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

Testimonial: "that is what i also thought, no puddle yet, just waiting. I tried a sealant for now, but will get a heater core"

  • 173 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 96 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.1 V-6. Today, I

Hello... The thermostat is located, as you are standing in front of the car, facing the engine. Swing around to the right side (drivers), still facing the engine. With the Air Filter assembly removed, look at the engine below the throttle valve (the item were the throttle cable is connected). You should see at least one of the 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine.

It's not in an easy place but with a couple parts removed removing it is not hard.

Good Luck...

Posted on Dec 25, 2009

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My 1999 ford RAnger has heat but the fan makes alot of noise and does not blow out the heat and the trucks gauge will go hot. What would the issue? Heater core or mayb just the fuse?


Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy

TWO TYPES OF FAN CLUTCHES basic types of fan clutches: thermal and non-thermal (also called "torque limiting Thermal fan clutches have a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to temperature changes. When the air coming through the radiator is hot, the spring expands and opens an internal valve that reduces clutch slippage. This causes the fan to spin faster for increased cooling. As the air cools, the spring contracts and closes the valve. This increases the amount of clutch slippage, allowing the fan to slow down and decrease cooling FAN CLUTCH OPERATION

The clutch consists of a fluid coupling filled with a silicone based oil. In the cutaway view at the left, the area between the teeth on the clutch plates is filled with silicone fluid. An internal valve opens and closes a passage between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir. When the passage is open, fluid enters the clutch and makes the fan to turn faster. When the valve is shut, fluid flows back to the reservoir but doesn't return, causing the clutch to slip and the fan to turn more slowly.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

FAN CLUTCH PROBLEMS

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.
As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.
Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.
If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.
If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.
You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

Many experts say it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed. The reason is because both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon. As as we mentioned earlier, a high mileage fan clutch may be slipping excessively increasing the risk of overheating.
When you buy a replacement fan clutch, make sure you get the same type (thermal or nonthermal) as the original. You can always upgrade from a nonthermal to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but never the reverse. Or, you can get rid of the fan and clutch altogether and install an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

Sep 28, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How replace fan belt for Ford Crown Victoria 2000?


Mechanical Fan Belt Removal & Installation - Refer to Illustration below


Ford 4.6L Engine - Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car, Marauder

1. Loosen the fan clutch-mounting shaft from the water pump hub.

2. Loosen the fan shroud from its radiator mounting and remove the lower hose from the shroud.

3. Lift the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud from the vehicle.

4. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch.




CAUTION
Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage.

To install:

1. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).

2. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud. Mount the fan clutch shaft to the water pump hub and tighten to 37-46 ft. lbs. (50-62 Nm).

3. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws.

Fig. 1

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Sep 04, 2011 | 2000 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

I need to remove the cooling fan shroud from my 1995 Lincoln Continental. How is the easiest way to go about this?


Engine Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3.8L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.
  3. Disengage the electrical connector, then remove the integrated relay control/constant control relay module assembly located on the radiator support.
  4. Disconnect the fan electrical connector. Fig. 1: Disengage the fan electrical connector 86873115.jpg

  5. If necessary, remove the air bag crash sensor.
  6. Unbolt the fan/shroud assembly from the radiator and remove. Fig. 2: Unbolt the fan assembly from the radiator 86873116.jpg
    Fig. 3: Remove the fan from the engine 86873117.jpg
    Fig. 4: Slide the fan as an assembly up and away from the radiator. Be careful not to dislodge the mounting stud on the left side. 93143p56.jpg

  7. Remove the retainer and the fan from the motor shaft and unbolt the fan motor from the shroud.
  8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedures. Tighten the fan shroud retaining bolt to 23–33 inch lbs. (2.6–3.7 Nm). Tighten the fan shroud retaining nut to 71–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). Fig. 5: Constant control relay module location — 3.8L engines 86873118.gif
4.6L Engine
  1. Loosen the fan clutch-mounting shaft from the water pump hub.
  2. Loosen the fan shroud from its radiator mounting and remove the lower hose from the shroud.
  3. Lift the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud from the vehicle.
  4. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
    Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
  5. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15–20 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm).
  6. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud. Mount the fan clutch shaft to the water pump hub and tighten to 37–46 ft. lbs. (50–62 Nm).
  7. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws. Fig. 6: Fan and fan clutch assembly — 4.6L engine 84173064.jpg
5.0L Engines
  1. Loosen the fan clutch-to-water pump hub retaining bolts.
  2. If necessary, remove the drive belt from the water pump pulley.
  3. Remove the fan shroud upper retaining screws. Lift the shroud to disengage it from the lower retaining clips.
  4. Remove the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts and remove the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
  5. If necessary, remove the fan-to-fan clutch retaining bolts and separate the fan from the fan clutch. CAUTION
    Closely examine the fan for cracks or separation, to avoid the possibility of personal injury or vehicle damage. To install:
  6. Assemble the fan and fan clutch. Tighten the retaining bolts evenly and alternately to 12–18 ft. lbs. (16–24 Nm).
  7. Install the fan and clutch assembly and the fan shroud.
  8. Install the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts.
  9. Slip the shroud into the lower mounting clips and install the shroud retaining screws.
  10. If removed, install the water pump drive pulley and adjust the belt tension; refer to Section 1.
  11. Tighten the fan clutch-to-water pump hub bolts evenly and alternately to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–27 Nm). Recheck the belt tension.
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Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Lincoln Continental

2 Answers

Where can I get solid/detailed instructions for changing out the water pump on my 2001 Yukon SLE 4.8? Something that would include torque specs. and any must does and don'ts would be nice.


Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, DenaliXL, YukonXL 1999-2005 Water Pump - Removal & Installation 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engines
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Air outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

    62c3d00.jpg
    Fig. Exploded view of the water pump assembly-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
To install:

NOTE DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet duct Coolant

  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for the final pass. Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) for the final pass. Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant

Hope this help to solve it (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 26, 2010 | 2001 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Replacement of water pump on 2004 gmc sierra 2500hd 6.0l. any tips on removal and installation


Remove or disconnect the following:

Air outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

0996b43f802030d1.jpg

DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.

Install or connect the following:

Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet duct Coolant

Jan 15, 2010 | GMC Sierra 2500HD Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Ok i have a 1992 isuzu pickup and it is overheating


You are going to need to replace you headgasket and do it soon,when that is done change the oil and the change it again after the first 2 hundred kms.

Dec 14, 2009 | 1992 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Car runs hot in idle


I would try the themostatic fan clutch

Apr 01, 2009 | Pontiac Firebird Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fan & shrould Broke off the water pump


I believe that the part your'e talking about is the clutch for the fan. It is a two piece unit, factory assembled. likely the bearing inside failed and caused this. You can change the fan and clutch unit, inspect everything for damage from the fan becoming disconnected and be OK, however running and wobbling may have caused some bearing damage in the pump...keep an eye on it...any noises or leaks from there, change it.

Mar 24, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

Change water pump


If you have any questions feel free to ask. Let me know if you dont get diagrams(happens sometimes)

0900c1528004319d.jpgReverse rotation water pump—2.5L and 4.0L engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this manual.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following: NOTESome 4.0L engines are equipped with a fan clutch that threads Directly on to the water pump shaft. This fan clutch is equipped with right-hand threads. NOTEDo not store the fan clutch assembly horizontally, silicone may leak into the bearing grease and cause contamination. NOTEOne of the water pump bolts is longer than the others. Note the location for reassembly.
    • Negative battery cable
    • Electric cooling fan connector
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Engine cooling fan and pulley
    • Water pump pulley
    • Power steering pump
    • Lower radiator hose from the water pump
    • Heater hose
    • Water pump and discard the gasket
To install:
  1. Clean the mating surfaces of all gasket material.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Water pump using a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
    • Heater hose
    • Lower radiator hose
    • Water pump pulley. Torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    • Power steering pump
    • Engine cooling fan and shroud. Torque the bolts to 31 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Electric cooling fan connector
    • Negative battery cable
  3. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
  4. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
3.7L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this manual.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Fan and clutch assembly from the pump
    • Fan shroud and fan assembly. If you’re reusing the fan clutch, keep it upright to avoid silicone fluid loss!
    • Lower hose
    • Water pump (8 bolts)
  4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts, in sequence, to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 0900c1528004319e.jpgWater pump tightening sequence—3.7L

Nov 15, 2008 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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