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The battery light turn on after few seconds the starter car, the alternator and battery are good,I checked in auto zone

Previously, light turn on and later turn off, replaced the battery because was more small, but the problem continues, now never off after turn on.

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  • Jose Angel Tabares Matos

    Thanks for your time, the problem continu, I checked some ground wire, battery pins, and nothing, some guys talk me about the starter motor, but this work good. The problem is when the car run, after few seconds, maybe 30 o 45, the battery light turn on, I checked the electrical diagram and this problem have relation with regulator and powertrain control module, PCM, the next weekend I will check the three wires to conection alternator and PCM,and will make sure this conection do not have contact false. I tested alternator voltage two time, with load 13.93(AC, radio, light), without load 14,3, the engine speed was low , and the alternator are tested with and without battery, the voltage do not changed.

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1999 suburban starter replaced battery good turns over eratic

The starter may be binding on the flywheel/flex plate. Your new starter should have come with shims. Try putting them between the starter and the block one at a time and see if that helps.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

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SOURCE: 1995 Nissan Maxima won't start, not battery.

You may have bad solenoid, starter/battery/solenoid connections, or gound.

Check voltage at starter solenoid when somebody turns key to start. That is where the starter switch, or relay, sends the voltage to pull in the solenoid coil through small wire. I think the solenoid is on the starter for this car, but it may be separate. Autozone has an excellent web site with car-specific repair guides and instructions. You should see 12V at solenoid every time the key is turned to start.

Check big power cable to starter that runs direct from the battery for tight connections. If you have a separate solenoid, then another big cable runs from it to starter. A loose or bad connection could be the culprit. Also check starter mount bolts. They need to be tight for a good solid electrical ground. You also need good ground from frame to engine. Its a long shot, but sometimes the ground straps come loose or burn. You can easily check this by measuring resistance between engine block and negative battery terminal. It should be zero or darn near zero (less than 1 ohm ?).

The solenoid is really a heavy duty swich to handle the high amp load to the starter. It works by a coil that pulls in the big switch. The coil operates from the starter switch and needs onlyt low current and small wire. If the coil wires burn up or there is a bad connection, it won't work. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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SOURCE: Dead Batt (poss. Alternator?)

Likely you did this already but check fuses in power distribution box near battery (likely two 60a fuses for alt in there). Additionally, was alternator regulator tested or was alt "full fielded" for test. (regulator failure will prevent power made at alt from reaching the battery). Also, check continuity of leads going to alternator to make sure they're OK.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 98 saturn sl1 won't start

If the problem occurs after the car has been driven long enough to reach normal operating temperature, the problem is the starter. If the 'no crank' occurs cold, retest the battery.

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced battery and starter. My 2004 ford

this is a stupid idea but one of my co-workers have a 98 explorer and she lost the chip in her key. after that it still wouldnt start turns out the anti-theft kicked in and they had to reset the fuel shut off switch. your battery replacement maybe did the same? not sure where your switch is but hers was up under her passenger side floor board up front somewhere around the kick panel it was a purdy red button

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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