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Bubbling noise after driving for 5 mins or so

Terios recently got new refurb engine. Now, after driving for 5 mins, there is a bubbling noise from the engine bay. It starts happening when the temperature gauge is at a third of max, but the temperature gauge does not indicate any overheating, no matter how long I drive. It only ever reaches half just like before the new engine. The bubbling doesn't happen when idle, so when I stop and open the hood to try and work out where its coming from I can't tell. All levels look OK. Mechanic that replaced engine can't notice any problem, but it definitely was not making this noise before the new engine. Any ideas?

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Sounds to me like you've got to open your heater control to full hot and allow the coolant to circulate. You may have some trapped air in the system. In the past, I've even "bounced" the car a little to help speed the process. Check coolant level before and after.
Let me know how this works out.

Posted on Nov 30, 2012

  • michelle Dec 03, 2012

    I drove around for an hour or so on the highway with the heater on full and went over some speed bumps. It does seem to be less bubbly, it sounds more like liquid moving around. There didn't seem to be any change in the level of the coolant before or after and I guess thats a good sign. I'll take it for another big drive in a few days and see if its changed any. Thanks.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: 2004 ford ranger. temperature gauge

is the coolant flowing thru the radiator check bottom hose should be same temp as top hose if not could be clouged radiator or week water pump

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

plopit40
  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: temperature gauge indicates overheating, but engine not overheating, coolant being push into reservoir.

hi my name is brad i see you are haveing a problem and i think i might know the problem. if you have done all of that to your car and it still over heating you might have a blown head gasket one way to check is to pull your thermostat out and fill your coolant leaving the cap off then start you car let it rrun a few minutes and if you see bubbles the radiator its the head gasket even though you wont have coolant in your oil or out the tail pipe. if you check that and ther is no bubbles i have one other spot for you to check ( dont know if you have the 1.5 or 1.6 sohc ) but if you have the 1.6 sohc with the mpfi you should check on the throttle body at the idle air control valve(IAC) you will see two small line`s that have coolant some times on hondas with high millage the line will fill with crud and that can cause a problem.. if you have any other honda needs please let me know

Brad Ross

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 341 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 nissan sentra overheating

it sounds like a water pump not circulating antifreeze properly

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Mitsubishi L200 overheating

i have an l200 animal, i started getting the same symptoms, bubbling noises, over heating, water being discharged into the header tank, i had a good look around the engine,there was no oil in the water or water in the oil ( signs of head gasket failure) when the radiator cap was off and i revved hard nothing happened, no dip in water levels and no splashing out. i took the water pump off and the impellor had sheered off the shaft. fitted a new pump and its been fine, maybe all these cracked cylinder heads and warped heads are to do with the engine being run with the fault not being cured.

Posted on Jan 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine oil light comes on at idle, oil level ok

Increasing the weight of the oil by a shade will get rid of the problem, and adding a high-zinc motor oil will eliminate any possibility of sludge in the pan (with proper oil changes). However, as mentioned before, it is a band-aid fix. It will work indefinitely, if you are diligent with changing your oil every 3000 miles. Use 3.8 quarts of Rotella T 15w-40, add one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer, and use a WIX filter with an anti-drainback valve (which isn't really necessary since the filter hangs upside-down on a 2.7, but it's a good habit to use one on everything you drive). Do not use a Fram filter, Valvoline oil, or STP... or anything else. The three I mentioned above are the only ones to use, and DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL/ADDITIVES. I bought a 2004 Intrepid for the whopping sum of $250 that had the oil light/idle/low RPM issue because the owner was told by Sternberg Chrysler Center in Jasper, Indiana that the engine was going to grenade in short order. He wasn't going to pay them in excess of $2000 to replace the engine. I've put tons of miles on it since, and absolutely NO sign of the light, even now with the 2/1 Oxygen Sensor bad (which lowers the idle down to 600 instead of 750-800 where it should be). I'd trust the car cross-country. It's an expensive oil change at around $40 instead of $20 with cheap components, but what's saving your engine worth to you? A heck of a lot, I'd hope!

Posted on Apr 14, 2010

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