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2004 Chevy Tahoe rearend out of line

My 2004 Tahoe was i believe wrecked. I noticed that the rearend was out of line and that the axel was not sitting right and would scrub on one side. I found that the panhard bar was bent and it was replaced. It feels better but still not right. When i hit a bump it feels like the rearend is swaying. Any ideas?

Posted by Anonymous on

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The rear sway bars have not been replaced. When you look at the driver side rear the tire is even looks like it not stright. I can see where the tire is scrubbing the inside where the i believe it the control arm mounts to the frame. When you look at the rear of the tahoe while its on level ground it leans to the L side. When i measure the height of the frame from the ground there is about 1 inch difference. Also measuring from center of front wheen to the center of rear wheel there is about 1 1/2 inches difference. Any other Ideas? I am taking it to a shop to have the frame checked to make sure its not bent.

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Caravan Front end clunk.

Had similar problem with 2003 Dodge GC. Replaced the parts you mention + rack & pinion, then to fix the now noticable whining noise, replaced power steering pump and pulley. Fortunately was under an extended warrentee at 46k miles.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: i hit a bump on

Sounds like your left front wheel bearing is going bad. When you make a right turn, or compress the right front suspension over a bump, it forces the car to roll to the left. This loads the suspension on the left side, which will exaggerate a wheel bearing problem. Are you hearing the noise at all when travelling on the highway in a straight line? If so, it'd be either a grinding sound or a hollow humming noise. If you aren't, it may be that the bearing is just starting to go bad.

A quick test to see if the bearing is bad is to jack the car up at that corner, grab the wheel at the top and bottom, and shake it hard - if there is any movement or looseness, your bearing is shot. If there is none, it doesn't mean the bearing is fine, but it could be that it's just starting to go bad (which would be why you only hear it in turns and bumps, but not straight-line yet).

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Grand Cherokee rear noise

have the rear sway bar bushings been replaced if not try that it should fix problem

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

  • 7353 Answers

SOURCE: Front driver side suspension knock over bumps

See if you can bounce car and replicate the noise. If you can, you should be able to find it, and put your hand on it. Stabilizer bushing are a place to look, both at the lower a arm and on the frame. If you narrow it down to the strut, it will need to be replaced. The front trans mount also goes bad, try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and give it some gas and see if the engine moves an excessive amount.

Posted on Nov 23, 2009

topgunsvcs
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 04 Dodge 2500 4X4 shakes violently after hitting bump at 55 mph +

The bumps do initiate the shaking. When my 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 started shaking, I had just had it aligned that morning. A month or so before that alignment, my passenger side outer tie-rod broke while driving down a rock road. I replaced it with a heavy duty MOOG tie-rod end. Anyway, the same day I had it aligned I was driving back home from a job and towing my bobcat behind me. I hit a bump and the truck did the "death wobble" with the front end shaking violently up and down in an alternating fashion (one tire in the air while one tire on the ground and then vice-versa). I changed the tires first (which were worn-out 305/75/17 mud tires). Since the day I bought the truck new in Jan. 2006, I've had larger tires on the truck than the tiny 235/75/17s that came with it and I've done a lot of heavy towing with it and never had a problem until this alignment was done at Sears. I;m still trying to figure out if it was the alignment specs that they used or if the problem coincidentally started that same day. I also changed the steering stabilizer. Neither the new tires nor the stabilizer/damper helped the problem. So I changed the other outer tie-rod end and the upper and lower ball joints (all MOOG with grease fittings). I turns out they were worn out. So, the truck no longer shakes violently up and down when I hit a bump. That problem seems to be in check. However, now when I hit a bump the truck's front end wobbles side-to-side. I can do a few things to recover from it. I can hit the brakes pretty hard and sudden (which can cause an accident on the interstate), or I can **** the steering wheel side-to-side a few times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock) and that stops it immediately...until the next bump in the road. Also, if I let my foot off the accelerator just before hitting a bump and let the truck coast over it instead of power through it, sometimes the truck will ride over the bump without incident. I found out yesterday on a 5 1/2 hour road trip that if I did 80 to 90 miles per hour and powered through every road blemish, the truck rode fine...no shaking at all. I suppose the high speed forces the tires to stay straight when they hit a bump. Lastly, to confuse my problem solving attempts further, sometimes the truck rides like a cadillac (for an hour or so) at regular speeds and no matter what bumps I hit. Then without worning, the front end will loosen up and get that sloppy feeling again and the wobbling comes back at every bump...until the next time it feels like tightening up and driving right again. I have no idea what to do now. I'm going back to Sears today to have them check their alignment. Other than that, all I can think of is to change the rest of the steering components and check the steering box for malfunction. I hope someone can help all of us Dodge owners out off of the road tested info that I've just provided. Dodge doesn't seem to care to address the problems with their trucks front ends, and we need a solution before people get hurt or die. I was almost run over by an 18-wheeler trying to figure out how to handle the shake. I can't afford to buy another truck. So I need to fix this one so I can keep working. If anybody has a concrete solution to these problems, please let us know. I've read 20 different opinions from mechanics on these blogs, but nobody has said yet that they fixed someone's truck with these problems and have since heard from that customer and everything is still working fine. Opinions are helpful sometimes, but they're also confusing when they're conflicting.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

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