Question about 2006 Pontiac Torrent
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like your fuel pump is going bad! The more you press on the pedal the more demand is on the pump and it cant keep up cuz its junk. Try to limp it to a shop to replace it, unless u wanna do that yourself.....
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
SOURCE: starts and stalls
I had a similar problem on my 1999 Grand Prix, 3.8l engine. I replaced the IAC Motor (Idle Air Control) that attaches into the throttle body. After disconnecting the battery, the computer goes into a learning process. It stalled once, but now seems to be running correctly. The codes set were Engine Misfire, which could be anything. I also bought a crank sensor, which is suspect, but I didn't install it.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
SOURCE: car started idling rough.
Re:"when gas pedal depressed, the car would stall...once you babied it to about 300 rpm it would seem to clear."
There are conditions and inputs that are used by the PCM (main computer, also called ECU or ECM- This determines the mixture sparyed inside cylinders). Some ov the inputs, like air temperature are used in a different way when engine is cold or when idling, some factors that contribute to determining the mixture proportion, like recirculated gases from exhaust for example. For this reasons when you rev up to 300 rpm, the engine will stay on.
If additionally the engine is turning off when you put in gear, then there may be a problem affecting the auto transmission. Engine stalls in gear because the wrong gear is getting engaged by auto tranny module (called TCM).
About idle problem, parts to be checked are the following:
Fuel pump, fuel pressure and fuel circulation: use a hand gauge to test fuel pressure (eg. Vacuum & Fuel Pump) . If there is a problem, parts that can be involved are pump, lines and filter.
Vacuum system makes a bigger difference when car is idling. A vacuum leak will result in a lean mixture, causing start problems. Look for vacuum leaks. This is done using the same gauge you used on fuel lines, while spraying carb cleaner on lines. If there is a leak, pressure will go up.
Air sensors, MAF(mass flow sensor), IAT(intake air temp.), along with air intake problems can cause problems like the ones you described. A rudimental test can be done disconnecting sensor connectors one at the time, and observing if this make any difference. If it does not make any difference, then the sensor is probably defective. Sensors like MAF and MAP sometimes can be sorted out by cleaning them.
Crank sensor can cause problems.Check its connector. Malfunctioning or disconnected crank sensor will result in severe timing problems.
Ensure that there is spark in all cylinders. This is done pulling out cables one at time, and putting them near to engine. Listening to engine a you should also be able to realize if a cyl. was not firing when pulling out cable (no change).
If additionally there are tranny problems, parts like TPS or other parts contributing in TCM input and transaxle control must be tested.
There are more factors that can cause engine not starting, I have listed most common faults that may apply to your problem. The first thing to do is a code scanning. Use an OBDII scanner, or go to the nearest Autozone, they do the code scanning for free.
If there are no codes, do all the troubleshooting described above, most of the time this will be enough to allow you finding the problem.
All the best.
Posted on Sep 20, 2010
I'm much surprised no one picked up this question sooner...
I must add here in advance that the fuel quality these days are always over looked. If you run your car low on fuel regularly (not filling the tank), you could easily have a fuel issue. I always recommend Lucas, as it is a lubricant and has much more cleaning capabilities for the fuel system than regular dry gas, although that would also help.
The next thing would be to replace the fuel filter. Keep in mind it could be the fuel pump - namely the wires which lead into it - which could have a short or a possible breaking connection (especially if the problem is reoccurring on a bumpy road).
If not the above:
Most fuel injected autos are all automatically adjusted (air/ gas mixture as well as heat from the exhaust which draws warm air from the manifold when engine is cold - and this time of the year where temperatures drop we will experience problems with the weak links such as the idle air control valve (IAC).
I am not sure where you would find this on your particular vehicle - this is exactly the problem I had with my ford ranger.
If the first couple items were checked and you haven't found the details for a solution to this, then I recommend that you find a haynes or chiltons repair manual for this year, make/ model vehicle, You can obtain one at the local library (free to take out) or local auto parts store (costs about $20-25). Your best bet is to CALL AHEAD to either and check on availability first! In there you will find the more specific information which will help you get to the bottom of this.
Please provide feed back rating - Thanks!
Posted on Oct 28, 2011
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